Buongiorno Salerno

Taking the train to Salerno was easy, but not really comfy. Italy has tons of sleek new trains- not this one. But it got me there which was what mattered.  And even better, Salerno is pretty flat!! After all the stairs of Europe I was thrilled with some nice flat coastal walk ways. 

My first day was just about exploring. I walked along the promenade, and found an old Fort- though it didn’t seem to allow visitors. There is another Fort high up on the hills behind town. I obviously did not go see it. 

I wandered the old town, found a cathedral that allowed you to visit the crypt. Which was not what I expected! It was brightly lit, and gorgeous with marble everywhere and paintings on the ceilings. It is the testing place if the patron saint Matthew, and a bunch of archbishops. 

I also spent a bit of time on the beach, which was pretty popular. And sandy, which was a nice change from the mostly pebbly beaches I’ve been visiting. The town was just packed with people, since it was a Saturday I do wonder if it’s tourists or locals enjoying the day. There were a fair number of kids wearing cute little costumes as it was the weekend before Halloween. 

My second day in Salerno I booked an excursion. It was a boat cruise up the Amalfi Coast. It was an amazing day. We slow motored west along the coast, and enjoyed some Prosecco to start the day. There was a stop in Amalfi where we had an hour to explore. I wandered around with another solo traveller I met. She’s ‘working from home’ in style, staying in Europe for a few months as a break from home in the US. 

The next stop was to swim, they anchored the boat along the coast. The water was just amazing, fresh and clear and a nice temperature. And they fed us caprese sandwiches after as we motored along to Positiano for another hour of exploring. 

There was another swim break, then we were bribed back on the boat with a treat of limoncello and cookies. Sadly it was time to head back, but we cruised along enjoying the gorgeous sunset behind us. And some more Prosecco that my new friend I had grabbed in Positano!!

I am just loving Italy. I have been wanting to come here for so long and it’s taken me way to long to actually follow through!! It’s just going to get better too! Pompeii is next, then Rome!! 

My heart belongs to Italy

 I took the train from Bari to Taranto, which was chosen pretty much at random as it was an easy train journey along my path and had some good reviews online. 

The day I arrived, I may have left my rose coloured glasses behind in Croatia. I was a bit dejected looking at the crumbling old town.  It was very quiet as it was mid week in the off season and already not a high tourist traffic area. I did push on and went looking for some where to eat, eventually finding an all you can eat sushi restaurant. 

I did have a nice suite in a guest house so I decided to catch up on some sleep. In the morning I pushed on and did find my mood brightening as I explored. I also laughed to find my self in a huge pack of French tourists from a cruise ship.  I didn’t end up doing much that day. Wandered about the new town, found a store to stock up on some snacks and drinks for my room. 

The next day I went looking for the sights to see. There is a gorgeous Aragonese Castle on the island. Unfortunately I didn’t realize, as it’s an active military site you need a booking for a tour. Since they are only Italian I decided to skip it and go to the Archeological Museum. 

Taranto is located in the arch of Italy’s “boot” and has had people living here since the Bronze Age. It was settled for a while by the Greeks- there are the remains of a temple to Poseidon in town. Eventually it was taken over by the Roman’s. Unfortunately because it has been continually lived in, most old structures have been torn down and built over. But occasionally, like the temple, they are rediscovered and preserved. 

I also walked to a beautiful cathedral in the old town that holds the remains of the patron saint. While I was admiring everything a little old Italian man started explaining details of the church, pointing out the features and the relics. While I don’t speak Italian I was able to grasp most of what he was showing me. And I didn’t need Italian to understand his question at the end when he held my hand, pulled me close and smiled up at me. After a firm “No” he laughed, gave me a quick hug and moved along. 

After that I decided to relax on the beach. It wasn’t the most picturesque spot ever. But the sand was soft, the water was clear and the sun was warm. I enjoyed my swim and then reading on the beach. I had another quiet night in my guesthouse before getting reading to head out in the morning for my next stop in Salerno. 

My Days in Dubrovnik

The bus to Dubrovnik was interesting. Croatia is separated by a very small section of Bosnia Herzegovina along the coast. In July Croatia had just celebrated the opening of a bridge to a Croatian peninsula that allows drivers to bypass the coastal borders as Bosnia is not currently in the EU.  And yet my bus stuck to the coast road. 

So everyone had to get off for passport control, twice, to cross the six miles. And it was a packed coach so they were not quick!!

We of course made it to Dubrovnik eventually. I was picked up at the bus station by the owner of the guesthouse. He was an absolutely fabulous host. I had a beautiful room with a stunning view of the harbour. And he seemed happy to play host, driving myself and another couple into the old town that night and up to the over look above town another morning. 10/10 would recommend the S&L guesthouse. 

So after an evening of exploring Dubrovnik, my next day included a tour back into Bosnia Herzegovina. (More borders. Yea!) it was a day trip to Mostar which has an absolutely exquisite old arch bridge. Sadly the bridge itself is a reconstruction as the original 15th century one was destroyed in the wars.  Our guide told us the history of the areas we were in during the wars at the collapse of Yugoslavia. I was just a child in those times so while I know of it, it was moving to hear the story from the locals. (My host also told us of living in Dubrovnik during the siege there.)

It wasn’t all depressing though. Mostar is an amazing town with a long fascinating history. And just beautiful. It was tearing my up to walk along the old town streets and see the gorgeous crafts and not be able to buy anything. That is the worst part of travelling for so long!! 

We also saw the young men of Mostar jumping from the 29m high bridge. What was once a tradition of boys proving their manliness has become a show for the tourists, (although it’s also said the wealthy of the town paid the poor boys to jump for their amusement in centuries past.) Handsome young men in swim suits wander the crowd for donations and when they determine they have received enough a young man jumps to the river below.  I looked into doing the jump- for 30 euros they will train you how to do it safely and have you practice from lower heights. After seeing how high it was I decided that I didn’t have enough time to try it.

Our next stop was the Kravica waterfalls. It was a beautiful stopping point, with an icy cold little lake at the bottom of a dozen picturesque waterfalls. On the drive home we crossed the border further inland back into Croatia so we could take the new bridge back. Seemed a little pointless to me. But it was fun to take the new route, and it did seem to be a faster crossing point!

My last day in Dubrovnik was a full one as I was taking a late ferry to Italy. The old town walls are complete so I walked all the way around them. The city also has the worlds oldest pharmacy and apothecary museum in the town walls.  I enjoyed a couple hours at a beach beside the town before wandering around some more. 

Dubrovnik has a gorgeous old town. It’s incredible that it’s still lived in and filled with business after hundreds of years. Sadly most of the damage and ruins are from the last 20 years. Almost all the original terra cotta tile roofs were destroyed in bombings. The factory made tiles are lovely, but just don’t have the same impact as ones made by hand, shaped over a workers thigh, one by one. 

Still there were lots of narrow wandering streets that led to amazing little surprise spots. Walking down the Jesuit steps I learned from a nearby tour they were the site of Cercei’s disgrace on GoT, and I found a little bar out side the walls with steps leading down the rock for an amazing swim spot. (Next time)

I was sad to pack up and go. I could spend so much more time here. But I had my ferry crossing booked to Italy. With an 11 hour crossing and boarding to be done well before that I splurged on a cabin. I had a tiny little two bunk room to myself that was surprisingly comfortable and easy to sleep. 

Though I decided a beer in the bar before bed would not go amiss. I actually ran into two women from Quebec that I had met on the Mostar tour, and we ended up chatting for a while which was fun! And in the morning when we arrived in Bari they headed north for their adventures and I went west to Taranto for the final leg of my European adventure. 

Croatia

Taking the train to the city of Trieste, I then boarded a bus to Croatia. My first stop was the city of Rijeka. On the way we had to cross Slovenia. Strangely the border in was open, but we had to go through passport control to get into Croatia. So can I count Slovenia as a country visited? I was there for 30 min and walked over the border!

Rijeka was a nice little town. I wouldn’t call it anything special but it had a lovely castle at the top of the hill. Only 561 steps to the top. Luckily there was a bar inside!!  Unfortunately being there on a Sunday meant almost everything was closed. Except the bars. All the bars seemed open- but they don’t serve food. I found an Irish pub that was open for supper. 

I think the highlight of Rijeka was actually my guesthouse at the Old Town Guesthouse. Small little building with a room on each floor. I had a gorgeous little room on the top floor. Amazing view and it was all mine!! I had some lazy evenings in watching movies. 

Zadar was next, and another beautiful old town. It had an old Roman forum. Sadly it was further damaged by bombs in WWII. But I stayed in the old town and I just loved walking down the old marble streets.  Though they are slippery! At the tip of the old town peninsula they have a sea organ, lining the promenade the artist created holes for the sea water and air to flow like a pipe organ. In calm seas it sounded like whale song, and lots of notes mixed in at higher tides. (I posted a video on the associated IG account.)

Another bus down the coast lead to Split. This incredible city is home to Diocletian’s Palace. He was a Roman emperor who had it build for his retirement. Still standing it is also a part of this thriving city and filled with homes, shops and restaurants. I over heard a story from a guide- when GoT tried to film here they demanded the palace be closed off to the public. After being reminded that the majority of the buildings were privately owned he alleged HBO got very dismissive. So on the first night of filming all the residents held an impromptu sing along from their roof tops to show their disdain. 

I also took a boat cruise from here. The first stop was the island of Vis and the town of the same name. It was a short break at this beautiful little fishing town. We then went to see the blue cave. We were so lucky to have beautiful weather, and no crowds. The guide said in the summer the lines can be up to four hours.  They take you in a small boat to the entrance of the cave, it hardly looks big enough to allow us, then opens into a large cavern. As you float around a bend is an opening bathed in blue light. The sunlight only enters through an opening under the water, bouncing off the white sand floor to bathe the cavern in incredible shades of blue. It was breath taking. 

After continuing along, back down the coast of Vis to check out a couple other spots like the Green Cave, which was pretty, we stopped at the Blue Lagoon for a swim. It was an absolutely gorgeous spot, with more crystal clear water. The little island where we stopped is privately owned by a man who lives there with his two donkeys. I imagine he makes a pretty penny off the tour companies though.   

And we finished the day at Hvar, another island with a slightly bigger main city. We had a late lunch there before cruising back to Split during the sunset. 

Venice at Last

I’m a little behind on the blogs, but I just felt like adding that while I’m telling the story of my amazing time in Venice, I am currently sitting in the sun on the Croatia coast listening to the sea organ in Zadar. Don’t worry, that story will come. I just felt the need to include this moment in the post I am writing now. The movement of the waves causes music, mostly a deep crooning, to come from all around. It’s beautiful. 

But now I want to tell you all about Venice. This has been a bucket list city all my life. I was worried for a long time I would never get the chance due to higher tides causing so much damage. Italy has however finally finished building a massive system of bollards that can be raised to protect from flood tides. 

I opted to stay on the mainland near the Mestre train station. It was ridiculously cheaper and with my rail pass only 10min a to get into Venice proper. 

The first morning was thrilling. I felt just pure joy that I was here. I paid for a day pass on the boat-bus system and started with a cruise down the Grand Canal.  

Venice is just perfect. I am a water soul after all!! I disembarked at St Mark’s Square first and had a look around. Though I decided that I needed to do boat journeys first as the next day I would explore more on foot. I walked to the north side of the islands to catch a boat to Murano. Along the way I passed the hospital emergency entrance which had the ambulance boats parked out front. For a quick minute I thought this would be an amazing place to work!!! Then I remembered the narrow windiness and the stairs. There are lots of random ups and downs over the canals!!

Dismissing that thought- and the fact I don’t speak Italian anyways- I caught a boat to Murano. It’s another small cluster of islands where the glassworkers were isolated. Initially placed there due to fire risk, it was quickly realized it was a great spot to isolate the glassworkers to help protect the secrets that made Venetian glass so prized for centuries.  Having no way to pack the glasswares really helped keep me from buying anything!! It’s beautiful work. 

I skipped Burano as I had little interest in the lace making, though I hear there are some beautiful buildings there too. And on the ride back to Venice proper we stopped at the cemetery island so I hopped off for a quick look around. It is a beautiful and peaceful place. 

After circling the outside lagoons, I had lunch by Rialto Bridge, and rode back to St Marks for another look around. As the sun was setting I took one last ride down the Grand Canal. Before leaving Venice I had a last drink on a roof top bar near the train station- I was scouting the area for my mom who will actually be staying in that hotel about a week after I go!

The next day I stayed on foot. Aiming roughly into the heart of Venice I wandered where ever looked interesting. Crossing little bridges and canals, watching gondoliers row down narrow canals. Looking at old buildings and beautiful views. I made it over Rialto Bridge and back to St Mark’s Square. Further along to the east is a large park that was nice to sit under the trees. 

It was interesting to see, a large university in Venice was holding its convocation in St Marks Square (how amazing is that!!) and tradition is that graduates are given a crown of laurels. There were lots of people all over Venice all day wearing their wreaths which was super cool. Though it was absolutely packed in Venice with all the family and friends here to celebrate. 

My final day in Venice I actually took the train for a day trip to Verona. Such a pretty little city.  Verona is famous for its setting in multiple Shakespeare plays, obviously including Romeo and Juliet. I did swing by the museum dedicated to the play, which includes the addition of a 20th century balcony that you can pay to stand on and get your picture taken. They also say it’s good luck to rub the statue of Juliet in the garden. 

After a quick peak I went back to exploring real history, a cool castle and the gorgeous Roman Coliseum. It’s complete and well preserved and now the site of operas. Annoyingly they were dismantling a stage and seating in the centre while I was there. But it was still amazing to climb up the seats and to walk through the corridors. 

I also hopped on another train to go a short way to Lake Garda, which is supposed to be just beautiful with the alps all along the shore. I say supposed because it was very hazy when I was there. Still, it was a very cute little town called Desenzano and I had a lovely dinner there before taking the train back to the hostel. 

So that was it for northern Italy, it was an absolute dream come true to go to Venice. And I really will come back one day and spend more time dreaming along the canals.  For now though I’m headed to Croatia and more beautiful coastlines. 

Monaco

Next country on the list is Monaco, I was very lucky to be able to visit a cousin here as I passed by.  She gave me a walking tour of some of the highlights and took me for a nice dinner in town. The next day she had to work so I explored some more on my own. 

My day started at the royal palace, a beautiful building up on a plateau overlooking the harbour and the Mediterranean. The old city is up there too so lots of narrow streets, a beautiful cathedral and the remains of an old fort. 

From the top you can look down into the harbour on some ridiculously huge yachts. There are also lots of flashy cars on the roads, more then a couple Porsches and Ferraris passed by. 

After lunch on the beach I went to the Monte Carlo Casino. More flash cars parked outside. It cost €17 to get in, but I got a €10 voucher for the slots or at the bar. I quickly doubled my money on the slots, cashed out and hit the blackjack tables. With a €25 min bet I knew I wouldn’t get to play long- and two quick busts ended my serious gaming.  I had a drink in the bar, because why not! And walked back to my cousins to meet up for dinner. 

It was a short visit but so nice to catch up with her! 

On the Continent

One month of traveling over, and time for a new direction. I took the Eurostar into Paris for a couple nights. I have been to Paris before so I decided to just spend one day seeing sights I may have missed the last time. 

I arrived a bit late in the evening so the first night I just walked down the street and picked a small restaurant for dinner. They quickly forgave my poor attempt at French and were very welcoming to me. 

The next day I set out exploring. I started by Notre Dame. Still completely closed off as they work on repairing it after the fire damage or five years ago. One one hand it’s great to see such an amazing old building being preserved- but the billions donated for a church when there is so much starvation in the world is stupid. 

And I digress, but what is fascinating is that there has been a project in France going for years, building a castle using only tool and materials available in the Middle Ages. And those craftspeople have become such experts at their trades they have been called in as the only people that really know how to craft and shape the enormous wooden beams of the cathedral. 

I also walked down the Seine, I walked over the Ponte drs Arts which is famous for the stupid (modern) tradition of attracting a lock and declaring your love before throwing the key into the river. So much damage was done due to the weight of all the locks that the bridge rails had to be completely replaced. 

And people are still attaching locks anywhere they can. Even random fences up and down the Seine.  And I started noticing locks in other cities too. 

After walking around the Louvre, down the Seine to the Eiffel Tower, I went and did the tour of the Catacombs. The story behind them is just crazy. The limestone was all dug out of the bedrock, and then in the 18th century when over crowding was an issue some one had the brilliant idea to move some of the over crowded cemeteries. Over 6 million Parisians now rest below the streets. Their bones all collected together in ways to make patterns it to pile them more neatly. 

I was tired after a long day so I had an early night in. The next morning I had to catch the train to Marseille. 

I stayed at a fabulous little hostel near the Old Port in Marseille. As I was a bit worn out I decided on having a lazy day. It was clear and bright so I took the bus down the coast to a beach and spent the morning relaxing with my book.  I went in the water a couple times- till I noticed the jellyfish encroaching on the beach!!

In the evening I had a nice dinner along the harbour which was now filled with leisure boats, and took a sunset cruise. He took us out through the harbour to the islands just off the coast where we anchored for the sunset. I was one of few that chose to go for swim- it was cool but perfectly swimmable!!

The sunset was lovely and we had a light buffet and some wine before cruising back to harbour with the glittering lights to brighten up the coast. 

The next day dawned fairly drizzly. I did a Petite Train tour of the city that enclosed going up to the basilica of Notre Dame de Gare on the hill overlooking town. The train struggled a bit on the slick roads (“I think I can I think I can!”) and the driver ordered us out. About half the train jumped out and had to walk a short distance until the road flattened again. I was not impressed!!

But I was impressed with the church, it was very lovely with a spectacular view of the city and the Mediterranean. I was also able to take the train back down again. 

Dinner was again by the harbour- I ate a lot of mussels in Marseille. They were delicious before going back to the hostel where I made some friends in the bar that night. It was great to sit out and chat with people about their travels before it was time to move along!

Last Days in the UK

It’s hard to believe I have been travelling for a month already. But it’s true, and I’m coming to an end of my time in the UK. I’m back where it all started- in London. 

I stayed again with my cousins, and had a nice weekend. On Saturday we went to the Portobello Road market. It was heaven and hell for me. So many cool antiques and I don’t have room in my pack for them!  

I managed to keep my money in my pockets, but really enjoyed walking up and down the market looking at everything on offer. We also stopped at the Portobello Rd Distillery for a delicious G&T before heading home for a nice night in.  

On the Sunday my cousin and I went with his little guy down to Hampton Court Palace. It was super cool to see the old castle, and the newer part where William and Mary had tried to “modernize” it. Thankfully they had run out of time/money so didn’t manage to tear down the whole Tudor castle. 

The little munchkin decided he wanted to be a knight, and was absolutely adorable running around the castle in his little outfit with a little sword. We also found that they had a Magic Garden for kids on the extensive grounds so he had a great time running around and battling the dragon. 

I went off to take some pictures of the gardens myself, and found the famous hedge maze. After a brief study of a photograph at the entrance I had very little trouble finding the middle. Though I was quite pleased there was a short cut to leave!!

Our little Sir Knight was pretty worn out after a busy day of dragon slaying so it was another early night for him and then just relaxing at the house. 

The Monday was to be my last day in London, so I planned to explore and see what I could see with my English Heritage pass. Well, turns out lots of things are closed on Mondays. 

Also Westminster Abbey was blocked off in the morning, it was the first day of the court season so all the lawyers and judges are invited for a special service in the morning. 

The Mall and a lot of roads around Buckingham Palace were also blocked off- but that was due to clean up from the London Marathon the day before. I did get to see part of the changing of the guard which was cool. 

I had a light lunch in the Crypt at St Martin’s in the Field before going back to see Westminster Abbey. It’s a beautiful building, and amazing to think people have been going there and buried there for a thousand years. 

And since no trip to London is complete with out a trip to the West End I met up with my cousin that night to see the Back to the Future musical. It was so much fun! The songs were great and the cast did a great job on the show. 

I’m the morning I took my time getting ready. Sir Knight was home with his nana so we just played a bit before I had to head off to catch the Eurostar. It was time for the next stage of the journey- off to the Continent!