The day began early as I headed out to meet a tour for the day. I had chosen an archaeologist guided tour that went to the Stonehenge complex, Salisbury and Avebury. I was really excited. I had heard Stonehenge was a bit of a “tourist trap” but I still wanted to see it, and I was so excited to hear all about the great Neolithic monuments with such a knowledgeable guide.
We were picked up by the Victoria and Albert Museum to start, it was a small group but included another single woman so we became friends for the day to have someone to chat too. The bus ride out of London was a bit boring, but likely why we had to start early to be able to get out easily!
The first stop was Woodhenge in the same area as Stonehenge. The wooden poles have of course all rotted away, but the complex pattern was discovered through the post holes they left in the ground. The site is interesting to see has it now has short concrete posts to show where the tall logs would have been. It is connected to Stonehenge with its proximity to a large pathway that runs along from the Avon, and Woodhenge, to the great stone monument.
There are theories about the wood vs stone representing birth vs death and other mystical aspects of Neolithic worship. Right beside the Woodhenge site we also saw the Durrington Walls, which was a settlement site and speculated to be where the builders lived. There is evidence of a lot of activity around the winter solstice, showing that the importance of the sites may have more to do feasting during the shortest day of the year than the more publicly known summer solstice that attracts the modern pagans to this day.
Next was the great Stonehenge. It definitely has its huge visitors centre and long circular route. But even the end of June I didn’t find it too crazy. There were a lot of people, but I was never jostled or had people blocking my photos. The stones themselves were so interesting to see, and to have the small details, like the ring ditch that is what gives it the ‘henge’ name, pointed out just made the trip. We didn’t stay for the gift shop, and just a quick peak at the rebuilt Neolithic huts, before we headed to Salisbury for lunch.
In Salisbury we also visited the Cathedral which was built in the 13th century when the church decided they wanted to relocate the main church from the near by hill fort of Old Sarum. It has the tallest bell tower in England, the oldest working medieval clock, and a copy of the Magna Carta. As well the building and the grounds are just stunning.
We explored the medieval town and my new friend and I had lunch in the town square, before getting back on the bus for the next stop. Driving through the countryside, we stopped to see a Neolithic long barrow, that is right beside Silbury Hill. The hill is the second largest man made hill in Europe and no one knows what it’s for. There has never been any remains or structure discovered within, and studies seem to show it likely took decades to be built. It’s just a big cone in Wiltshire.
We drove past the chalk figure of the white horse carved into a hillside, which was one of the inspirations for the device for the Riders of Rohan. Our last stop was the town of Avesbury, which is the only English town built inside a Henge. The massive bank and ditch would have been carved entirely with antlers. Within are dozens of standing stones. Many are still in their original location, but many were thrown down but the Church in days past. Some were restored by antiquarians. As well some concrete markers have been installed where there was evidence a stone had stood in the past.
The town itself is beautiful, and interesting to explore. We didn’t have much time, but I did have a quick half pint at the Red Lion- “the only pub inside a Neolithic Henge.” It also has the dubious attraction of an ancient well that is now used as a table, and “contains the remains of at least one unfortunate villager.” Charming!
We got back to London a little late, so it was pretty much right back to the hotel for me! I was a little frustrated trying to find somewhere to eat, all the more traditional pubs in the area had stopped serving food and the only things open were cheap takeaways. I did not fly to London to have cheap takeaways! Although yes, I ended up having some cheap Chinese food. At least it was pretty good!
