Flashback Friday - Inca Trail 2019

 We woke up in the morning ready to start the hike.  I was a little overly confident.  I was in decent shape, run often and had an active job.  I knew the trail wouldn’t be easy, I didn’t know the altitude would kick my ass.  Still, there are no regrets!  I would 100% recommend this trip, just consider all the precautions if you aren’t used to being so high above sea level!

We started the beginning of the trail with our two guides, the team of porters were well ahead of us.  Everyone carried their own day pack while the porters carried our main packs.  They had limits on how much they could be loaded with, but they were still incredibly impressive, literally running the trail with 25kg of equipment on their backs. There used to be llamas on the trail, but they were banned as the hooves were wearing out the steps.

The trail is a protected area, but the first two days there are villages of local indigenous people who are permitted to continue living in the park as their traditional lands.  The first bit we passed houses and the occasional local on motorcycle or horse back.  As I alluded too, I did struggle. At first I was just surprised that I was out of shape. It was the uphills that really took it out of me.  I never fell too far behind. I never got very long rest breaks though when I caught up with the group!  We had 16 people in our group.  Peru allows only 500 people a day to start the trail, and half of that is easily the employees carrying all our gear, food and tents.  So there are still a fair number of people, but it didn’t feel crowded.  They must be easily practiced at stringing out the groups so we were never too bunched up in one place.

The porters had a tent set up at the first stop for our lunch break.  Full hot meals and comfortable seats.  There are a variety of companies and prices, but they all still do a lot for you!  Even though the same companies use the same sites day after day, they are not allowed to set up permanent structures beyond a few existing toilets at the camp sites.  So they do full tear down and set up, carrying everything to every stop.

So as we carried on the hike, all the various porters sprinted past us with their loads to have camp ready when we arrived.  As we were fairly close to a village a local woman turned up with a bucket of large beers for $6 each.  As alcohol was the one thing not provided we were happy to indulge and toast the end of day one. 

I had a talk with the guides about how I was feeling, I wanted to press on but was warned that tomorrow we pass the point of turning around and the only way out was helicopter evac. Not a fun prospect, but I didn’t feel that bad.  I did however opt for an earlier start.  Myself and two others decided to leave an hour earlier than the main group to have less pressure on the hike. The second day was the big challenge, crossing Dead Woman’s Pass at an elevation of 4,000m or 13,000ft. 

Flashback Fridays - Peru 2019

I really enjoy writing my blog while I travel, and I hope everyone enjoys my stories!  The trouble then becomes that there is long gaps as I scrape my pennies together again for the next trip.  Well, I realized I had some pretty good adventures before I thought to document my travels, so I have decided to add in some Flashback Fridays!

In 2019 I decided it was time to cross a major bucket list item off my list and go to Peru to hike the Inca Trail. I had been fascinated by it for long time, and the idea of walking along a trail that is hundreds of years old. The amount of work it must have taken to build this trail for a hundred miles from Cuzco to Machu Picchu.  The city was “lost” for centuries as well before being “rediscovered” by an explorer in 1911.  I use the quotation marks because the American explorer found it after being told where it was by a local boy and a family was living in the ruins farming the land.

For my trip, I flew into Cuzco for a few days ahead to try and acclimatize to the to altitude. Spoiler - it didn’t work. Anyways, I made some friends to explore with.  My flight from Lima to Cuzco had some problems so we were all deplaned and had to wait about an hour to reboard.  My remedial Spanish was enough to understand some of the information so I was “translator” for a lot of the English speaking crowd.  One guy mentioned he was flying in to meet up with several friends so I made plans to explore Cuzco with them.

Cuzco is an amazing city, it has its Incan roots with Spanish colonialism stacked on top.  The quality of the stone work the Incas were capable of is astounding, massive blocks of stone fitted together without mortar so tightly you can’t slide a piece of paper between them. 

Lots of hills too has Cuzco sits in the basin of a valley, with the town centre at the bottom and the sacred temples at the top.  I quite enjoyed trying the local drinks, a Pisco Sour became a quick favourite and the local beer too.  As well we all tried some local delicacies.  I didn’t mind the llama but I found the guinea pig to be pretty greasy.

After a couple days my new friends moved on with their plans, and I joined up with my tour group.  I used G Adventures, and they seem to have a great organization.  We spent the first day driving out along the Sacred Valley to Ollantaytambo, which is the town closest to the launching point for the Inca Trail. 

We stopped at a weavers compound that is sponsored by G where local weavers still work in traditional methods.  They showed us their work, and I bought a gorgeous scarf.  

We also stopped for empanadas and to seen the traditional mud brick makers.  In Ollantaytambo there was an option to go on a hike up the cliff sides to old Incan store houses and farm terraces.  As we were about to start a very intense multi day hike, and it was raining, no one took them up on the option and we just explored the town instead.  

We had an early start the next day on the famous Inca Trail, so most of us were happy to have an early night to be ready for the next amazing adventure. 

Another Day in London

My trip was finally coming to an end, for the final leg I was back in London and visiting with my cousin and his family.  Last time I had been to see them their little guy was just 3.  It was amazing to see him growing up and with an adorable little sister added into the mix.  I was thrilled that this lovable pair was just fearless and took to me quickly.  It wasn’t long before I was getting hugs and playing games.  I was also thrilled that one other family member took a shine to me, their cat was just a little love snuggled on the couch with me too.

I arrived on a Thursday, so on Friday everyone was at work and school so I was off on my own for the day.  I headed first to the Tate Britain, which was actually the main reason I had looked at coming to England for this trip.  They were hosting an exhibit on the legendary Lee Miller.  I had only recently learned about her when the movie Lee came out last year.  I had meant to see an exhibit that was in Toronto at the time, but life got in the way.  I recommend seeing the movie and seeing her photos.  Not only was she an incredible photographer, a gorgeous model but she was such a brave woman to fight to stay in the front of WWII and photograph and share the atrocities that needed to be seen, even if people didn’t want to see them. 

Anyways, enough of my pitch on Lee Miller, next I went to the British Museum.  When my aunt and I were talking about archeology, she was reminding me about the amazing exhibit on the Sutton Hoo discovery.  I have been to the museum several times but it is so large I have never gotten to the Saxon section.  Seeing some of the beautiful pieces that have survived over a thousand years was incredible. If I had any patience I’d have been an archeologist.

That was the end of my day so I hurried home for Pizza Night with the kids.  The next day was packed with the kids activities in the morning, and then us playing games in the afternoon.  Saturday was movie night.  Once the youngest was put to bed, the oldest got to watch the second Harry Potter movie.  He’s working his way through the books, and the rule is he can see the movie once he is done a book.  He was very excited and it was quite a test of patience waiting till the little was tucked up in bed.

He didn’t quite make it till the end, falling asleep on the couch.  The grown ups still finished it and he got to watch the rest in the morning.  Which actually worked out well as the clocks had gone back so his parents said he was awake at a ridiculously early hour!

Which brings us to the last day.  It was an easy morning at home, with the kids colouring and playing games.  There was a piano lesson as well which was fun to listen to.  Sadly it was time to go.  I managed to get all the hugs I could before it was time to go.  Then it was back to Heathrow for an uncomfortably long flight home and back to reality.

Thankfully I had gotten the Monday off work.  My original plan was actually to go right back to work.  Every time I say I will plan in some recovery time, and every time I think it’ll be fine and it’s worth it to stay a couple days more!  That is my pro tip, always book a rest day after bigger trip!

Tales of History, Near and Far

I had a lovely few days next in Bristol.  Picked up at the train station by my Uncle, we did a little driving tour through town, though Bristol is not a very car friendly place!  Then we headed up to Cleavedon to see the pier along the Severn Estuary.  I had a delicious cream tea to fortify myself for a blustery stroll along the coast.  Cleavedon also has a very large tidal swimming pool.  This one had only a few brave people swimming on a very cool and windy day!

The next morning was spent going through my family history.  My Uncle had acquired from family some pictures that his Aunt had kept.  There were snap shots from my childhood that my grandparents had been sending along, as well as photos of my grandmother as a young woman travelling with friends.  There was even a photo album of my great grandparents on what appears to have been a Scandinavian cruise! 

The afternoon was spent with local history, my Aunt took me to Berkeley Castle.  It has been owned by the same family for 900 years- with a few gaps over the centuries after the family backed the wrong side in conflicts!  The castle is also famous for having been where King Edward II was held and allegedly murdered during the Civil War years.  The current family still lives at or around the castle, but much of it is open for tours so it was interesting to see all of the history they have acquired and kept over the centuries. 

Dinner that evening was at the Royal, a fantastic pub in Portishead.  I had an incredible steak and ale pie. It was over looking the Severn, which would have been a great view in the day time, however we could still see the twinkling lights of Wales in the distance.

I left Bristol over loaded with family photos, my Uncle told me I was welcome to take all I wanted as I am the family member who is very interested in the historical things. I am going to have my work cut out for me trying to figure out who everyone is and then digitizing them! 

Time for Family

I have very much enjoyed my time exploring Cornwall on my own, I am finishing up my journey through England by visiting various relatives.  First is a stop in Salisbury to see a cousin. The journey unfortunately was not an easy one.   I still had my rental car with plans to drive to Exeter and catch a train there.  The drive in the beginning was any easy one.  It was raining quite a bit but as I was on a dual carriage way things flowed fine.

Exeter however was another story. I guess as soon as there is one minor issue the town just fills up.  I was on time when I got to the city, and twenty minutes late getting to the rental location.  Then it took a half hour for a taxi to arrive, and with a longer trip to the station, I missed my train by a good hour.  I was able to book onto a new train, but also for some reason, probably the weather, the trains were running an hour longer for the trip to Salisbury.  In the end however, I made it.

My cousin and her husband took me to dinner at the Haunch of Venison in Salisbury.  Just an amazing old building that was opened around 1320 and was used by the workmen building the near by cathedral.  They say the beams in the ceiling are even older and came from sailing ships. The marble floor tiles come from the cathedral, when there was an update done to the heating there.  There is a mummified hand on display that is said to be from the 18th century, someone who was caught cheating at cards.  As well one of the little “snug” rooms at the back hosted Winston Churchill and Dwight Eisenhower as they planned the D Day invasions. So all in all just an amazing spot for dinner.

The next day was a little dreary, I had wanted to walk around Old Sarum but it was on and off pouring rain.  So instead I was directed to visit a really neat little spot, The Phoenix Emporium, like a flea market, with dozens of little stalls filled with all manner of collectables, antiques and random items.   Then it was just a walk into Salisbury, through the market square which was hosting a silly little fall fair.  No one was on the rides in this weather though.  I also went through the Salisbury Museum, which had an interesting mix of archeological finds, including various skeletons like the Amesbury Archer, and others dating through the Saxon to the Neolithic. There was a small display from a Landscape Art competition, and the story of Salisbury through the ages. 

I had walked around the cathedral a little, but I have been there before when I was in England for another family members wedding, so I didn’t bother stopping in again.  It is a gorgeous old cathedral though, I would recommend visiting it and seeing one of the remaining copies of the Magna Carta too. 

The rest of the evening was just quiet at home, chatting with my cousin and getting lots of cuddles from the family pup.  It was nice to have a home cooked meal as well and just relax on the couch in the evening.  A slow morning the next day as I was moving on, thankfully with no train issues this time, and headed to my Uncle near Bristol

A Haunted Jail (Not for Skeptics!)

This post really is for the believers.  Or those of you who would really like to laugh at me!  I truly do believe in energy connecting the world.  Seeing the threads as they connect to the non visible parts is hard.  Even I don’t believe in many people who claim they can see them.  If you are trying to make money off the unseeen than you definitely should be doubted.

The Bodmin Jail Hotel is making money off its historic past, off the dark history.  The museum does have paranormal tours, but it isn’t the main focus.  That does mean it doesn’t benefit from people spreading stories of “experiences.”

Here is mine. During my after hours ghost tour there were more than a few flickering lights.  The guide had an explanation and a story of the lights being repeatedly checked out by varying levels of professionals.  The lights danced in a way that was plausible with the stories told.  The guide seems to be a believer and I think would be shamed if the lights were faked.  I’d like to believe.  They just seem to easy.

What I felt though, wasn’t during the tour, sure there was sadness at some of the tales of people and children in terrible situations with horrible punishments.  What oppressed me the most was dinner in the Chapel Restaurant.  A beautiful spot with lovely staff and excellent food.  On two of my three nights there I just felt so down.  Minor issues at dinner that barely rate anywhere else led to me just feeling so tearful.

There are so many explanations, dinner actually being disappointing or personal issues getting in the way.  After dinner however I went back down to the Champagne Bar in the Chaplin’s office, and very quickly felt more myself again.  There are so many simple explanations - it was full of people chatting.  Just moving rooms reset my brain.  They are all likely. I just know that I sat there for another hour and didn’t feel anywhere near the sadness I did upstairs.

I am certainly not saying what I felt is supernatural, or even to not visit this exquisite hotel.  Just maybe comes with friends and a light heart against the sadness that is in these very elegant walls. 

Walking the Moors of Cornwall

My last day on my own on this trip, and I decided to travel around the beautiful Bodmin Moor.  Most of my knowledge of the area probably comes from my love of Time Team, all of their episodes online really got me through the pandemic.  As well as just hiking the moors I wanted to see some of the sites I had seen on the show. 

To properly explore Bodmin on my own, I got a rental car.  That is always an adventure in England.  I can manage driving narrow lanes and on the wrong side of the road.  But doing it in a vehicle larger than I’m used to, where I never feel like I know my width was an extra challenge.   I ended up on some very narrow roads that didn’t even seem wide enough for ONE car, let alone navigating if you came face to face with another.  Luckily I really only had to reverse down a lane way once.  

I started this morning with another lovely breakfast at the hotel before setting off.  Going counter clockwise around Bodmin my first stop was Golitha Falls.  It was a pretty little spot close to the road so an easy walk.  Lots of people out this morning, and lots of dogs running about.  It had the ruins of old wheel housing from the old workings in the area, it is now a protected area with lots of old growth oaks and flora and fauna. 

I kept along the road to the town of Minions with has some beautiful stone circles, the Hurlers, just a short walk from the car park.  I kept walking along to moor up towards the Cheesewring, which is a stack of stones resembling the slabs of the same name used to press cider apples.  These ones are enormous and there is debate if they are a man made monument or naturally occurring.  The area was also heavily quarried.  Some of the stone cladding along the Tower Bridge is from here.  

I love the open ramble laws of Britain, it was really neat to just wander through this field, past the stones and then continuing up the Tor.  I passed cows, sheep and horses all in the field.  You also have to be careful while driving because the sheep had not been taught to check before crossing!

At the top of the Cheesewring were lots of pits that looked to be from mining and quarrying. It is hard for a novice like me to know which stone circles are Victorian quarries, which are old mining pits and which could be as old as the Bronze Age Rillaton Barrow I was able to find on the top.  They are all, however, stunning.  I didn’t go all the way to the top.  My stamina and my ankle are just not what they were a few years ago and I had a whole day of agony, sorry hiking, ahead of me. 

There were a few interesting spots I would have liked to try and find along the moor, but a couple of the monuments don’t really have road markers.  You just need to find the right lay by and footpath along the road and head off for a walk.  So I did stick to the better marked spots.   The next part of my route ended up being a bit poorly planned with some driving back and forth.  I stopped first in the village of Altarnun that was recommended soley for having a pretty little stone bridge and a lovely 15th century church.  Both were picture perfect, but it probably wasn’t worth navigating the narrow roads in and out for just 15 min!

I headed up the highway a little bit - two lanes! Wide and open! To the Jamaican Inn.  Famed for being a smugglers hide out, the original location was built as a staging post for travellers across the moor.  It got a reputation for smuggling and became famous due to a novel written in 1936 by Daphne Du Maurier.  It got its name as the original owner of the area was also once the British Governor to Jamaica.   

I had a nice lunch there and looked around the 18th century buildings.  I think if there is ever a return visit to Cornwall this might be a good place to stay as well.  It’s also another allegedly haunted site.  With a gorgeous pub for lunch. 

Next was a bit of back tracking, I wanted to go see Rough Tor and google was recommending driving through Altarnun.  A little bit of sleuthing and I decided to take a slightly “longer” route.  The roads seemed to be bigger and I was right and got to drive at a decent speed for most of the way to the spot.  Rough Tor is part of what Time Team had investigated in Bodmin so I was quite interested to see it.  During their weekend you couldn’t seem to turn around with out tripping over prehistoric round houses.   I’m not even sure I walked the best parts and I was not disappointed.

I’m not sure what I was thinking, I managed 3.5km and an elevation gain of over 200m in just an hour.  The wind was howling and the rain had started.  It was everything one could expect of hiking a British Moor.  I didn’t even have the goal of making it to the top of the Tor.  I just staggered passed the amused cows and sheep to the top of the gradual rise, and saved the steeper stone top for tougher souls.  It was incredible.  There were stone circles everywhere, likely the prehistoric round houses.  Stone lines were field boundaries, dating from the medieval and further back into the mists of time.  And stacks of stones at the top of the hill that were carried up there by people a lot more determined to me.

With the day coming to an end, the wind threatening to steal my hat, and my knees about to never forgive me, I headed back down to the car to head back to the hotel for my last evening in Cornwall.  Of course that wasn’t the end of the adventure, I still had to drive the narrow roads back to the bigger towns. At one point I actually stopped driving to take a picture of how ridiculously narrow it seemed for even one vehicle!

But I made it safely back to the Bodmin Jail Hotel, which is a gorgeous luxury hotel with amazing food.  My one word of warning is to maybe never visit alone.  At least during dinner in the old Chapel I have had some issues with low moods.  Maybe that is just me though and just a coincidence…you’ll have to see for yourself!