Sunday, 4 October 2026

Tobermory

For our second day on Mull, we had a loose plan of driving up to the northern part of the isle and the town of Tobermory.  I still laugh a little bit since I learned there was a Tobermory in Scotland.  There is a town in Ontario not far from me with that name, and I always thought it was an indigenous word, or at least based on one.  When I saw an episode of Time Team where they went through Tobermory I was shocked!

The forecast for the day was less promising, but our hotel also had a fancy spa with pool, sauna and hot tub so we kept that in reserve for the afternoon.  We did start the morning in Craignure though by going to the Duart Castle overlooking the Mull Sound. Built in the 13th century it was the ancestral home of the MacLean family.  They castle passed out of their hands in various conflicts, but was reaquired in 1911 and rebuilt by the MacLeans and has hosted many clan gatherings, and the family of the clan chief still live there.  

Next was the drive north started with a two lane road before dropping down to a single lane for the second half.  This road was also busier with coach buses so it was it was a bit of an adventure.  When we got to Tobermory we parked and went for a little walk.  The town is on the coast with the ferry we would be taking the next day.  The buildings that face out to sea are all painted bright cheerful colours. With the rain coming down we were happy to duck in and out of the little shops and the stop in at the Tobermory Distillery.  I had seen their gin before back home, and as I was driving I couldn’t do a proper taste.  But I did try a splash of the special gin they don’t sell anywhere else and was suitably enticed to buy a bottle. 

Next we drove out of town towards the Glengorm Hotel on the northern coast of Mull.  A majestic castle from the Victorian era, there were stories of a stone circle walking distance away.  It was a pain to find the walking trail with only “park by the coffee shop” as instructions.  Eventually realizing the “coffee shop” was an unmarked building on the grounds of the hotel, we found the trail to the stones.  It was another trail through farmers fields, though this time the livestock didn’t get very close.  With a dodgy ankle fettering me, and the rain deterring my mother, we got close enough for some pictures before heading back to the car. 

A little damp and cold, we stopped back in Tobermory for a light lunch at the Gallery, a stunning restaurant in a converted church on the main road across the harbour.  Then we agreed to just head back to the hotel and bask in the hot tub and sauna at the hotel. It was nice that the pool actually doubles as a community pool and there were some adorable munchkins with shark fin floaties having lessons.  The sauna at least was just for guests of the hotel, so less crowded.  Then we had a few drinks in the lounge, and as we had reservations tonight, dinner in the dining room overlooking the harbour.