Sunday, 17 November 2024

Welcome to Churchill, Manitoba

 I have been wanting to do a trip like this since I was in high school, i remember learning about Churchill, the Polar Bear Capital of the World, and being fascinated.  Back in those days it was a long train ride to get to the small community on the shores of Hudson’s Bay.  It sounded amazing. 

But life and time was passing me by, and this year I was thinking about all the places I want to go, and all of the places I have been, and I realized it was time for Churchill.  I started researching all the various tour companies.  Most of them were based out of Churchill proper, and would take you out for the day on large tundra buggies to see the bears.  One i think even had sleeping accommodation on the buggy.  But I was just picturing a bunch of large vehicles circling one or two bears, all angling for the best view, and I knew that wasn’t what I wanted.

So I kept coming back to Churchill Wild, it’s unique in the world because it takes its guests out on foot to see the bears.  The guides are well trained in bear behaviour and with 30 years behind them, it seemed like an amazing option.  So I flew in to a remote lodge along the Seal River. 

Our day started horribly early in Winnipeg where we caught a flight to Churchill.  On arrival at the airport we were greeted with a sign on bear safety.  Unfortunately we were informed the weather was poor so they weren’t sure if our small hopper would be able to make the next leg to Seal River.  Not ones to waste the time, we were whisked onto a bus for a tour as the pilots kept an eye on the weather.


The first stop was the Polar Bear Holding Facility (aka Polar Bear Jail) where any “problem bear” can be held.  A problem bear is one that wanders too close to town or makes a nuisance of themselves.  The bears are usually lured in with traps so they can be placed in the Jail for about 30 days before being relocated.  The idea is to make the town memorable as an unpleasant place to be, without causing any harm.  

Just as we were starting to drive along the coast we got the news we would be staying in Churchill for lunch.  I wasn’t thrilled, I wanted to get going.  And then the phone rang again, and we had ten minutes to get back to the hanger! So our driver quickly got us to the hanger, our group of 12 loaded onto two separate small planes for a short hop into Seal River.  Apparently the flight was “sporty” but we made it safely, and the previous guests were able to head out.

We were fed an amazingly lunch before heading out for the first walk of the tour.  Before the walk of course we got a thorough lesson on bear safety, the non-lethal deterrent, and of course all the guides do have the lethal option.  But in 30 years that option hasn’t been needed and they do not want that at all.

Our first walk was fairly uneventful.  We did see some Ptarmigans, and a snowy owl.  But no bears.  A bit disappointed, but tired, we headed in for dinner before the light faded.  Well, long before dinner, sunset was before 4;00.  We had some lovely appies and drinks before dinner, saw an arctic fox exploring around the compound.  After an amazing dinner there was a small talk on the northern lights, though the skies are looking pretty overcast, so we could be prepared just in case.  Then off to bed for a morning of bear walking. Hopefully we will find some!!!


Just a teaser, my alarm in the morning was a bang on the door and shouts of “Bear! Bear!”

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