One Day More

Today was the last full day at Seal River.  Everything had already been so epic, what more could we see? Amazingly, there was more!  The day started slowly.  During breakfast we noticed a bit of colour with the sunrise, which was something we hadn’t seen yet!  Everyone grabbed their cameras to capture the pink hues reflecting off the ice and open water.  The only thing that would have made it better was a polar bear.

Well, as the light increased we actually spotted a polar bear, Frick, sleeping along the shore directly in line with the sunrise.  It was so perfect, and an arctic fox was running around too.  We spent a bit of the morning watching him, and then the small female came by the lodge.  She came very close to the deck so we were right by her, which was amazing.  But they both decided they were bored of the lodge and wandered away.

So we kitted up again for a hike.  We started by walking along the shore of Hudson’s Bay.  We found so many tracks in the ice, everyone seemed to be heading north.  It was pretty neat, along the shores the ice was slushy so the tracks had frozen pretty clearly.  We could see bear, fox and wolf tracks all running in the same direction.  There were tracks for a mama and one cub as well.  So we had a lot of optimism as we followed them along.

We found one bear further up the shore resting on a point in the distance.  But with the tide high, we really couldn’t get any closer.  So the group turned back and followed some tracks through the willow brush that led us back to the main runway.  When we got through we saw another bear resting at the far end, it appeared to be a new female.  But she wasn’t interested in us, as we got a bit closer she walked away from us down a hill out of site.  As we followed her onto Lake Uh Oh, so named as its at the end of the runway and if the pilot makes a mistake you end up in the lake!  Anyways, as we got to the lake we could she she had travelled quickly to the far side to settle on a new point.  She clearly wanted nothing to do with us, so we took the hint and headed back. 

The walk back to the lodge was fairly uneventful.  After warming up and waiting for lunch we saw another bear headed towards the lodge.  He was moving north across the shallow frozen ice of the bay, and he seemed to be moving with purpose.  He kept stopping to sniff the air, and didn’t even pause to examine the lodge as he went by.  He was a bear on a mission.

So while we ate lunch, the staff went to the lookout to scan the area.  As we gathered for the last hike of the trip, it was just a small group of us.  Four diehards heading out in the wind for one last hike.  Technically it was the warmest day of the trip, but the windchill was crazy!  But with the smaller group we were able to make a better pace north along the shore again.  The guides had spotted a few bears at a kill site about 3km away.  We were able to get pretty close, and a film crew that are making a documentary on arctic foxes came out with us.  With the tide out this time, we were able to cross the lagoon by island hopping.  The ice wasn’t very thick, and pretty slushy at points, it’s a good thing they gave us high quality boots!! But we got close enough to watch the bears napping after the feast and the foxes fighting over what was left.  It didn’t look like the bears had many left overs though.  About seven arctic foxes were dashing around, trying to steal each others meals.  It was just the most amazing end to the day.  As the light was fading and the snow was whipping right in our faces, it was time to head back to the lodge.

We got back in time for some mulled wine before dinner.  It was an excellent roast, and then we finished the night with a slide show that the guides had been compiling from our week here.  It was still an early night, as our flights home are supposed to be early in the morning!

Going on a Bear Hunt

Today started a little calmer, no wake up calls so it was breakfast as normal.  After breakfast we geared up for another trek, and headed out.  A bear had been spotted at the place we had seen mama and cubs yesterday.  We were hopeful she was still hanging out, but it turned out to just be Frick napping on a comfortable hill.  

After watching him for a little bit, we walked further along to a spot that often has arctic hares.  We were in luck as there was a couple that were resting.  They are very confident of their camouflage ability, so we were able to slip fairly close to get some great pictures.    

On the walk back, another bear came ambling into the area.  This was a female, she was a bit leaner than the other bears we had seen so far, and pretty dirty!  We watched here exploring the paths as she walked across the runway and into the willow brush.  She was interesting to watch.  We saw Frick and Radiohead walking along the skyline.  They were pausing for breaks frequently.  And it was almost lunch time, so we kept headed back to the lodge.

After lunch, it was pizza day, as we were prepping to leave again, we got summoned to the front porch to see a bear ambling down the roadway.  It was the small female walking by.  We ended up racing from the front of the compound to the back, and then returning to the front.  As first, the female wandered by, then one of the males -Frick was slowly following her.  He just seemed curious, but she wanted nothing to do with him so she kept on walking.  There isn’t proper pack ice formed yet, but during low tide the shore ice can be thick enough for the bears to walk on.  So the female kept heading out till Frick got bored and gave up.   She found a nice flat chunk of ice to nap on.

Then it was back to the front as Radiohead came down the path, looking for his friends.  He found Frick chilling near the compound by the shore, and the two of them tussled a bit and then took a nap.   Our walk for the day got cancelled, as there were three bears so close to the compound! So we spent the afternoon watching them and the occasional arctic fox who scurried by.

After a while the female woke up and decided to walk south towards us, she was exploring the point of the lodge, but hadn’t realized the two trouble makers were napping on the shore.  We watched with interest, as she slowly approached them.  As soon as she realized there were two male bears near by she reversed direction and headed back across the ice.  The boys woke up at this time, and decided they wanted to play with her.  So another slow foot chase happened, as the boys just could not take a hint.  Eventually the female made it to the shore and vanished into the willow brush.  The boys gave up at this point and described to spar a bit more on the shore on the far side of the lagoon.

This was the hint for me to head inside and warm up.  We had an afternoon presentation on Arctic Foxes with some mulled wine, followed by another excellent dinner.  The evening was finished off with a presentation on the adaptions of arctic animals, then chatting by the fire before another early bed time.  

Looking for Bears

The first full day in Seal River started with a literal bang, at about 7:30 there was a loud knock on more door with a shout of “bear!”  I was awake but half asleep, so I took me a moment to process what was going on.  Then a quick rush to get my gear on and join every one outside to find a male polar bear ambling along the compound fence.

We watched from the safety of the fence as the bear nosed around checking every thing out.  He was joined after a bit by another young male.  As the explored and nosed around they would start sparing - not a true battle but practicing their skills for when it comes time to challenge for a female at mating season.

We were a bit late to breakfast watching the bears spar, break apart to rest, and then spar again.  An arctic fox also ambled into the area at one point.  What a start to the day!  Everyone was coaxed inside with promises that the bears likely wouldn’t wander far.  

After breakfast we went out looking for the males, they had wandered off down the runway.  We found them resting after a bit, and then the cycle started again of them sparing.  We were able to follow them for a bit and get decently close.  We got some amazing pictures of them, and apparently this behaviour is a bit unusual for this time of year as the bears normally are conserving energy at the end of the fasting season.  But these chonky boys were more than happy to put on a show.

We thought our morning was amazing, but we got word from the lodge that a mama and two cubs were walking past.  We hurried back to try and see them, but unfortunately she moved too quickly along the shore.  So we went inside for lunch.

Our afternoon walk, it was reported a bear was spotted near the ponds at the end of the runway, and they suspected it was the Mama.  So we went out again, and our luck held!  It was a mama and two COY cubs.  Cub of the Year means the babies were born within the last 12 months.  They were very adorable, but one of the cubs was very cheeky and wanted to come check us out.  It led to some amazing pictures before he was getting too close.  Not only do we not want to piss off the protective mama, but we don’t want to teach the cubs that humans are nice.  Because a lot of them aren’t.  So we got to practice our anti bear techniques. We got him to scamper off once, but the cheeky lad came creeping back.  So after scaring him off again we moved along.  

We found found the two males again.  Staff were calling them Frick and Frack, although Frack got renamed Radiohead because he’d been tagged after a stay in Polar Bear Jail.  This time they were just sleeping, we did get some cute pictures and one amazing moment when an arctic fox was trotting by, spotted the bears, and turned and ran off the other way!  I got some shots of the fox lined up perfect with one of the bears.

That was the end of the walk for that day, so it was just a stroll back to the lodge before the early sunset.  We had appies and adorable hot chocolate with polar bear marshmallows before dinner.  Dinner was another delicious treat, and an early night was had by all after a small presentation on Polar Bear behaviour that was interesting.  Of course the loss of ice is bad for the bears, but it was interesting to learn about how they are adapting, like hunting belugas in the summer.

A fairly cloudy night, so no real chance at seeing the northern lights.  I’m keeping an eye on the forecast, we might get some clearing in a couple days!

Welcome to Churchill, Manitoba

 I have been wanting to do a trip like this since I was in high school, i remember learning about Churchill, the Polar Bear Capital of the World, and being fascinated.  Back in those days it was a long train ride to get to the small community on the shores of Hudson’s Bay.  It sounded amazing. 

But life and time was passing me by, and this year I was thinking about all the places I want to go, and all of the places I have been, and I realized it was time for Churchill.  I started researching all the various tour companies.  Most of them were based out of Churchill proper, and would take you out for the day on large tundra buggies to see the bears.  One i think even had sleeping accommodation on the buggy.  But I was just picturing a bunch of large vehicles circling one or two bears, all angling for the best view, and I knew that wasn’t what I wanted.

So I kept coming back to Churchill Wild, it’s unique in the world because it takes its guests out on foot to see the bears.  The guides are well trained in bear behaviour and with 30 years behind them, it seemed like an amazing option.  So I flew in to a remote lodge along the Seal River. 

Our day started horribly early in Winnipeg where we caught a flight to Churchill.  On arrival at the airport we were greeted with a sign on bear safety.  Unfortunately we were informed the weather was poor so they weren’t sure if our small hopper would be able to make the next leg to Seal River.  Not ones to waste the time, we were whisked onto a bus for a tour as the pilots kept an eye on the weather.

The first stop was the Polar Bear Holding Facility (aka Polar Bear Jail) where any “problem bear” can be held.  A problem bear is one that wanders too close to town or makes a nuisance of themselves.  The bears are usually lured in with traps so they can be placed in the Jail for about 30 days before being relocated.  The idea is to make the town memorable as an unpleasant place to be, without causing any harm.  

Just as we were starting to drive along the coast we got the news we would be staying in Churchill for lunch.  I wasn’t thrilled, I wanted to get going.  And then the phone rang again, and we had ten minutes to get back to the hanger! So our driver quickly got us to the hanger, our group of 12 loaded onto two separate small planes for a short hop into Seal River.  Apparently the flight was “sporty” but we made it safely, and the previous guests were able to head out.

We were fed an amazingly lunch before heading out for the first walk of the tour.  Before the walk of course we got a thorough lesson on bear safety, the non-lethal deterrent, and of course all the guides do have the lethal option.  But in 30 years that option hasn’t been needed and they do not want that at all.

Our first walk was fairly uneventful.  We did see some Ptarmigans, and a snowy owl.  But no bears.  A bit disappointed, but tired, we headed in for dinner before the light faded.  Well, long before dinner, sunset was before 4;00.  We had some lovely appies and drinks before dinner, saw an arctic fox exploring around the compound.  After an amazing dinner there was a small talk on the northern lights, though the skies are looking pretty overcast, so we could be prepared just in case.  Then off to bed for a morning of bear walking. Hopefully we will find some!!!

Just a teaser, my alarm in the morning was a bang on the door and shouts of “Bear! Bear!”

Wandering In Winnipeg

 I am off on my next adventure, and while it doesn’t sound too exiting yet, soon I will be staying at a luxurious all inclusive lodge on the beautiful shores of Hudson’s Bay!

Yes, I am headed north to see the polar bears in the Polar Bear Capital of Churchill, Manitoba!   While I cannot wait to get there, few adventures start so dramatically off the hop.  So last night I flew in to Winnipeg to meet my tour group and get geared up to go.  

So that gave me a day to explore.  Winnipeg is not overall a terribly exciting place, but my family on my mother’s side lived here for a few decades after immigrating from England.  My mother was also born here, which is a bit ironic as today it’s her birthday too.

Last night i got in late afternoon and was struggling as I was going with out sleep after a night shift.  I went down to the Forks along the Red River for a bit of a walk and for dinner.  It wasn’t terribly exciting but it was a pretty spot.

Today, with a bit more time, I took the bus to Valour Rd to walk along the street a bit.  Now for those who don’t remember your heritage minutes, it was originally called Pine St until shortly after WWI.  Three men who had won the Victoria Cross in that conflict had lived along the same street at some point, so it was renamed Valour Rd in their honour.  One of those men was my grandmothers Uncle, so I went to honour him.  I had a look at the little monuments and a mural painted along the street.

Then I walled along till I found the house my great grandparents had lived in when they were in Winnipeg.  The houses here don’t seem to have changed much.  A new facade, but still small little homes with no driveways.  But it was neat to see a place my grandma had lived when she was young.

I went back down to the shores of the Red River, walking along I saw the Canadian Human Rights Museum, explored the banks of the river, and saw some one I would have expected to murder me if there weren’t so many families out enjoying the weather.  A man just riding his bike along the river wearing an old style hockey mask like something out of Friday the 13th!  He stopped for a little break, and never took the mask off!

Surviving my brush with the weird, I walked up to the Market at the Forks where there was a little beer market, and I ended up taking my drink to sit outside.  It was about 7° out, but no wind and the sun was glorious so I joined a number of people taking advantage of the lovely day.

Tonight is meeting up with the group, I have met my roommate who is a professional photographer and seems really friendly.  We got kitted out in cold weather gear for our trip, and soon will be the meet and greet dinner.

Hopefully the next time I write I will have seen some polar bears, northern lights and many more amazing Arctic things!

BC and the Eagles

In May I was really happy to have one of my South African cousins visiting, technically he was headed west to see my dad.  But he spent a few days in Toronto with me before we both headed to Vancouver Island for an amazing getaway.

My dad and stepmom had found this phenomenal spot along the interior passage with an incredible spring confluence of eagles.  As the tides rush in, the current rushes out and the hake start running - the juveniles can't control their buoyancy and spike to the surface.  Thus commences the Feasting of the Eagles.  

Apparently at the best of times there can be up to a thousand birds in the air in just a small section of the ocean.  Most afternoons we had about 50 eagles fighting for a small amount of fish.  For myself it was more than enough and I was able to get some excellent photos.  

Over the four nights we spent at the Nanook Lodge on Stuart Island, we also saw sea lions, orcas, humpback whales, pacific white sided dolphins and several bears.  And we were fed so well.  One dreary day a few of us went out with the owner to drop some crab traps.  We then picked those up on our last full day and had some ridiculously fresh Dungeness crab with our final dinner.  

It was an absolutely breathtaking location, super friendly staff at the lodge, and just some of the best eagle photography opportunities ever - even though it wasn't a very good start to the season!!

London Wrap Up

Well, I let time get away from me! So here is a quick recap of the last few days I spent in London.  My mother and I decided to see Westminster Abbey, we had both been before but it is so gorgeous it is always worth seeing.  I just love exploring history, seeing the old tombs of people who have made such a large impact on the UK.  There is also a new gallery that was opened for the Queen's 70th Jubilee. It is an extra five pounds to access, but it had been closed off for centuries before being "rediscovered" and has an incredible view across the Abbey.

After we were done there, it was a nice walk up to Trafalgar Square where we had reserved an entrance time for the National Gallery.  Art galleries aren't really my thing, but my mom loves them and this one is full of history as well as paintings.  It was a really enjoyable afternoon exploring the halls and seeing some famous pieces of art.

We had a simple evening with dinner near the hotel and then drinks in the hotel bar.  It was a really fun trip to England, and a great few days in London.