Alex's Advice - Hostels for Solo Travellers

Lots of people can be quite nervous travelling alone, and travelling on a budget doesn’t help.  I started my solo travelling late in life so my concerns are not quite the same as young women.  I am just hoping to share some of my personal experiences.

When I did my epic trip, I spent the first two months in Europe.  As I had a long journey ahead of me, I chose to stay in hostels most of the time.  With the exception of one hostel in Dublin that used a headache inducing cleaner in the bathroom, I managed quite well.

One concern was that I was going to be the old lady at the hostel even at the ancient age of 38.  While most backpackers were of a different generation than me, a few were of an unexpected direction.  My first hostel in York there were several senior citizens staying there.  It helped me feel more comfortable immediately.  Also most of the younger people couldn’t care less, in Venice I hung out in the bar a few nights and chatted with a variety of people.  While I never chose to join the pub crawls, everyone seemed happy to meet anyone passing by.  

Though once in Edinburgh a pack of high schoolers on a trip were slamming doors as they chased each other through the halls.  I actually did channel my inner old woman and went to ask them to be quiet. Chagrinned they swore they would go to bed.  I had to laugh and said I didn’t care if they went to bed - just pick a room and stay there!

Still, there are safety concerns.  Many hostels do offer women’s only dorms.  I never really minded if I was in a co-ed or not.  I did notice however if Women only was available and I chose mixed, usually to be in a room with less beds, I would end up being the only woman.  I never had issues, but it is a consideration especially for young women travelling alone.  If there was an option, I started picked the women’s dorm.  

For privacy, it can be good to look at pictures of the rooms and see if there are curtains that come with the bunks.  If it’s not an option, I had planned ahead.  Most people are going to be traveling with a lightweight towel that can work as a curtain, or a sarong wrap works too.  Buy a clothes line from a camping store, these often come with attached clips.  Ask for a bottom or lower bunk, and you can wrap the line around the posts of the bed, attach your towel and get a little extra privacy.  It also works for longer travels to have something to hang clothes to dry.   

Be sure to also pack a lock, not just the one on your luggage, but a combination lock for a locker.  Try and look for hostels that have locker space in the rooms.  It’s a lot more comfortable leaving things behind if you know you can secure them.  I never liked carrying my passport out and about, but I was also never going to leave it unsecured.  In the same way, I also travelled with cash and back up bank cards.  I split them up into separate envelopes or wallets and hid one in various bags.  If something got stolen I should always have back ups. 

As for booking hostels, there are lots of websites out there, I usually would browse a few of them, the main hotel ones and also Hostelworld.  It can help to read a variety of reviews from different sites to be sure a location has what you want, and too see if complaints are dealt with or ignored based on responses on the big sites. 

I enjoyed staying in hostels, it was definitely a different experience and took me back to my younger days of travelling.  But if you aren’t planning to spend a lot of time at your accommodations it’s a great way to save money. You can meet people to hang out with if you are feeling a little lonely, or pick a place with a bar if you aren’t up for exploring your city alone after dark.

Be sure to have some headphones, both so you don’t disturb others or to help fall asleep when others are being loud.  And even in hostels - you do get what you pay for.  At the $20 pod hostel in Singapore you definitely got your moneys worth and not a cent more! 

Flashback Fridays - Machu Picchu 2019

The final day of the hike luckily did not have near as much hiking.  My group all voted for an early start, we wanted to be at the front of the back and we managed it quite well.  We had to be out of camp early to allow the porters time to pack up and catch their train home, so we were in line about 90 min before the gates open for Machu Picchu at 5:30. (Times are approximate. This was six years ago!) Our group was the second or third in line, so we were pleased.  Everyone had to be checked in to enter grounds as a ticket is required.

We hiked for about an hour towards the Sun Gate entrance, which included the Gringo Killer steps, which barely qualify as steps, more like a ladder.  I think they were also called the Monkey Steps as they were so steep you could use your hand for balance.  Luckily, there were not too many of them.  We made it to the Sun Gate in about an hour.  This is a spot where you can watch the sun rise over the epic old city. Of course this was the view we had. 

Still, we had a little break in the gorgeous old ruins before starting the hike down into the city itself.  When we arrived at the main city, tourists who’d come in on the train were in the city as well, though it was obvious we had arrived via the multi day trek as we had hiking poles and large packs which were not allowed in the city.  It was fun as we got a lot of cheers and people shouting their congratulations at us.  

The next stop was the classic Instagram Lookout for some obligatory photos posing with the ruins behind us.  Luckily it was not too over crowded so everyone was able to get some amazing shots.  After his the tour group actually filed out of the city, we were to leave all our gear at the buses waiting to take us back to civilization and re-enter for the proper tour.  There was an option to get a stamp in your passport (which i think we had had to carry to match our ticket into Machu Picchu) and then left in a cafe to wait for the guide to arrange things.  Everyone ordered something to drink, a few of us went for alcohol.  Someone pointed out we were drinking beer at 8:30am.  I was shocked for a second, then pointed out we had been awake and moving for the last five hours.  Not quite as bad!

Eventually we headed back into the city for a proper tour.  I could have stayed all day taking pictures and had to keep rushing to find my group after getting distracted.  There are lots of llama’s still wandering around, they actually are the previous pack animals that were just abandoned when the ban on hooved creatures on the Trail was set up.  Don’t worry though, they are cared for by those caring for Machu Picchu and are useful lawn mowers. 

The ruins were amazing, the views were breathtaking.  And one doesn’t need to walk the arduous trail to appreciate it.  The journey we were taking home is one that can be done in both directions for people who don’t have the desire, time, money or ability to hike the multi day trail.  After an amazing day exploring the old ruins, we took a bus down to the town of Aguas Calientes where we had lunch before catching the train back.  A few people took advantage of the hot springs that the town is named for, while i normally cannot be kept from soaking in steaming hot water, I just knew I would struggle putting my grimy old clothes back on after getting properly clean.  So I explored the town before lunch, then we took the train back to Ollantaytambo and a bus back to Cuzco to end our journey.  

I flew home the following day after a morning walking around town again as well as having a pint in the Worlds Highest Irish Pub.  It was an incredible experience.  Of course I wish I had a smoother time, but life can be boring if it always goes perfectly!  I had an amazing time on my tour and would recommend it to anyone.  Though as I said, if for what ever reason it isn’t for you, my mom did a similar tour with G, half the group did the hike, the other half continued to explore the area and then met the group for the tour in Machu Picchu.  Don’t miss out if it sounds like a place you want to visit!  

I loved the idea of walking in the footsteps of people who lived 500 years ago.  Canada doesn’t have near as much ancient history that is tangible.  Peoples may have lived here for countless centuries, but they left little evidence of their passing.  I love going anywhere, where I can reach out and touch something that has existed for so long and seen countless generations passing by. And the Inca left a heck of story behind. 

Flashback Friday - Dead Woman’s Pass, Peru 2019

The second morning on the Inca Trail started early.  Three of us opted for an earlier start than the main group, so we had a light breakfast while the others got another hour of sleep.  It was a beautiful morning as we headed up towards the notorious Dead Woman’s Pass.  It is thus named as there is a woman’s figure is visible reclining in the shape of the rocks.  The pass is the highest part of the trail at 4000m or 13,000ft.  So we spent the majority of the day going up. 

Our little group did well, keeping a slow but steady pace through out the morning. Most of the group caught up with us about mid day at a lovely little look out closer to the top of the pass.  This was the last place that we would see any of the local peoples and they took full advantage setting up a little stand with chocolate bars and alcohol for the various tourists.  Inflation is definitely a thing here too.  Yesterday is was $6usd for a bottle of beer, today that same $6 got me a can.  Everyone got various treats for themselves at this stop.  It was just a little snack break.  Lunch was planned for when everyone arrives at camp on the other side of the pass. 

There was still a bit more up for us, the group had discussed a group photo at the top, but myself and one of my early companions took too long so they had continued on by the time we made it.  It was a long slow slog getting up to the pass for me, but I was so thrilled to make it.  The clouds were closing in on the far side, it was so neat to see how they would bump up against the mountains and get stuck.  I decided to save my celebration beer for camp, and after taking the celebratory pictures we headed down the other side.

Physically the down hill was easier than the up of course, and it was all steady stone steps.  That likely was part of the problem for me, I wanted to power through and get to camp.  Not taking as many breaks probably wore me down as I just ran out of energy.  I could have easily given up, but my guide and my companion got me going again and into camp.  It was still early, about 2:00 but as I recall we left about 5am so that is a lot of hiking.  I thought I would be fine with the altitude if I went a few days early to Cuzco to acclimatize, but sometimes it doesn’t matter what shape you are in or if you do it right. Not every physiology can handle it.  I don’t tell this part of the story as a “woe is me” or to discourage you from trying it, but to be honest and give a full perspective.  Look into all the details and all the options, including medications you can bring.

Anyways, that’s enough of the PSA.  As I said, I was feeling rough, but I was well taken care of by the team and by my fellow hikers. It was decided the next day the porters would carry my personal pack and I would just have my water and my camera.  After having a long rest in the afternoon I was up for rejoining the group for dinner and cards in the evening.  A group of Brits taught us a new game, and it turned out one of the porters had played before with previous tours so he was joining us too which was a lot of fun.

The next morning dawned a lot better for me. With some donations of B12 and coca leaves to chew, and a lighter weight literally on my back, I was able to keep up on day three.  I was never going to be at the front of the pack, however I didn’t need a head start this time.  There was a detour to a look out point with some Incan ruins that I skipped, but the entire trail was littered with amazing stone work.  I did the tour in November which is the start of the rainy season, and it did rain.  But I actually ended up taking off my rain gear.  It was lovely and warm and the rain actually was very comfortable on the hike.  

After another pass, we got to the last set of terraced farms before Machu Picchu.  It was such an incredible view back along the sacred valley, the same valley and the same river we saw on day one of our hike.  And then we finished at an absolutely amazing camp, where all the groups were clustered along terraces over looking the valley.  My tent had a clear view, and since I was under the weather yesterday I still had my can of beer so everyone took turns posing with it that night!

We had a phenomenal full moon rising over the mountains that night, and it was the last night with our porters.  Along with the usual tips I donated a bunch of left over travel snacks I had brought. More popular was the deck of cards left by the Brits, we found one of the porters teaching games to the others and they were having so much fun. 

The next morning we opted for a super early start, we needed to be out of camp in time for the porters to pack up and make the train back to Ollantaytambo, but the gates to Machu Picchu didn’t open till 5:00. The option was no breakfast with a 4am start, or up earlier to give them time to serve us a hot breakfast.  We requested in between- cold breakfast with hot beverages.  With all 250 odd tourists all leaving at the same time, this was the bottleneck.  So we voted for an earlier start to try and be at the front of the line. 

Flashback Friday - Inca Trail 2019

 We woke up in the morning ready to start the hike.  I was a little overly confident.  I was in decent shape, run often and had an active job.  I knew the trail wouldn’t be easy, I didn’t know the altitude would kick my ass.  Still, there are no regrets!  I would 100% recommend this trip, just consider all the precautions if you aren’t used to being so high above sea level!

We started the beginning of the trail with our two guides, the team of porters were well ahead of us.  Everyone carried their own day pack while the porters carried our main packs.  They had limits on how much they could be loaded with, but they were still incredibly impressive, literally running the trail with 25kg of equipment on their backs. There used to be llamas on the trail, but they were banned as the hooves were wearing out the steps.

The trail is a protected area, but the first two days there are villages of local indigenous people who are permitted to continue living in the park as their traditional lands.  The first bit we passed houses and the occasional local on motorcycle or horse back.  As I alluded too, I did struggle. At first I was just surprised that I was out of shape. It was the uphills that really took it out of me.  I never fell too far behind. I never got very long rest breaks though when I caught up with the group!  We had 16 people in our group.  Peru allows only 500 people a day to start the trail, and half of that is easily the employees carrying all our gear, food and tents.  So there are still a fair number of people, but it didn’t feel crowded.  They must be easily practiced at stringing out the groups so we were never too bunched up in one place.

The porters had a tent set up at the first stop for our lunch break.  Full hot meals and comfortable seats.  There are a variety of companies and prices, but they all still do a lot for you!  Even though the same companies use the same sites day after day, they are not allowed to set up permanent structures beyond a few existing toilets at the camp sites.  So they do full tear down and set up, carrying everything to every stop.

So as we carried on the hike, all the various porters sprinted past us with their loads to have camp ready when we arrived.  As we were fairly close to a village a local woman turned up with a bucket of large beers for $6 each.  As alcohol was the one thing not provided we were happy to indulge and toast the end of day one. 

I had a talk with the guides about how I was feeling, I wanted to press on but was warned that tomorrow we pass the point of turning around and the only way out was helicopter evac. Not a fun prospect, but I didn’t feel that bad.  I did however opt for an earlier start.  Myself and two others decided to leave an hour earlier than the main group to have less pressure on the hike. The second day was the big challenge, crossing Dead Woman’s Pass at an elevation of 4,000m or 13,000ft. 

Flashback Fridays - Peru 2019

I really enjoy writing my blog while I travel, and I hope everyone enjoys my stories!  The trouble then becomes that there is long gaps as I scrape my pennies together again for the next trip.  Well, I realized I had some pretty good adventures before I thought to document my travels, so I have decided to add in some Flashback Fridays!

In 2019 I decided it was time to cross a major bucket list item off my list and go to Peru to hike the Inca Trail. I had been fascinated by it for long time, and the idea of walking along a trail that is hundreds of years old. The amount of work it must have taken to build this trail for a hundred miles from Cuzco to Machu Picchu.  The city was “lost” for centuries as well before being “rediscovered” by an explorer in 1911.  I use the quotation marks because the American explorer found it after being told where it was by a local boy and a family was living in the ruins farming the land.

For my trip, I flew into Cuzco for a few days ahead to try and acclimatize to the to altitude. Spoiler - it didn’t work. Anyways, I made some friends to explore with.  My flight from Lima to Cuzco had some problems so we were all deplaned and had to wait about an hour to reboard.  My remedial Spanish was enough to understand some of the information so I was “translator” for a lot of the English speaking crowd.  One guy mentioned he was flying in to meet up with several friends so I made plans to explore Cuzco with them.

Cuzco is an amazing city, it has its Incan roots with Spanish colonialism stacked on top.  The quality of the stone work the Incas were capable of is astounding, massive blocks of stone fitted together without mortar so tightly you can’t slide a piece of paper between them. 

Lots of hills too has Cuzco sits in the basin of a valley, with the town centre at the bottom and the sacred temples at the top.  I quite enjoyed trying the local drinks, a Pisco Sour became a quick favourite and the local beer too.  As well we all tried some local delicacies.  I didn’t mind the llama but I found the guinea pig to be pretty greasy.

After a couple days my new friends moved on with their plans, and I joined up with my tour group.  I used G Adventures, and they seem to have a great organization.  We spent the first day driving out along the Sacred Valley to Ollantaytambo, which is the town closest to the launching point for the Inca Trail. 

We stopped at a weavers compound that is sponsored by G where local weavers still work in traditional methods.  They showed us their work, and I bought a gorgeous scarf.  

We also stopped for empanadas and to seen the traditional mud brick makers.  In Ollantaytambo there was an option to go on a hike up the cliff sides to old Incan store houses and farm terraces.  As we were about to start a very intense multi day hike, and it was raining, no one took them up on the option and we just explored the town instead.  

We had an early start the next day on the famous Inca Trail, so most of us were happy to have an early night to be ready for the next amazing adventure. 

Another Day in London

My trip was finally coming to an end, for the final leg I was back in London and visiting with my cousin and his family.  Last time I had been to see them their little guy was just 3.  It was amazing to see him growing up and with an adorable little sister added into the mix.  I was thrilled that this lovable pair was just fearless and took to me quickly.  It wasn’t long before I was getting hugs and playing games.  I was also thrilled that one other family member took a shine to me, their cat was just a little love snuggled on the couch with me too.

I arrived on a Thursday, so on Friday everyone was at work and school so I was off on my own for the day.  I headed first to the Tate Britain, which was actually the main reason I had looked at coming to England for this trip.  They were hosting an exhibit on the legendary Lee Miller.  I had only recently learned about her when the movie Lee came out last year.  I had meant to see an exhibit that was in Toronto at the time, but life got in the way.  I recommend seeing the movie and seeing her photos.  Not only was she an incredible photographer, a gorgeous model but she was such a brave woman to fight to stay in the front of WWII and photograph and share the atrocities that needed to be seen, even if people didn’t want to see them. 

Anyways, enough of my pitch on Lee Miller, next I went to the British Museum.  When my aunt and I were talking about archeology, she was reminding me about the amazing exhibit on the Sutton Hoo discovery.  I have been to the museum several times but it is so large I have never gotten to the Saxon section.  Seeing some of the beautiful pieces that have survived over a thousand years was incredible. If I had any patience I’d have been an archeologist.

That was the end of my day so I hurried home for Pizza Night with the kids.  The next day was packed with the kids activities in the morning, and then us playing games in the afternoon.  Saturday was movie night.  Once the youngest was put to bed, the oldest got to watch the second Harry Potter movie.  He’s working his way through the books, and the rule is he can see the movie once he is done a book.  He was very excited and it was quite a test of patience waiting till the little was tucked up in bed.

He didn’t quite make it till the end, falling asleep on the couch.  The grown ups still finished it and he got to watch the rest in the morning.  Which actually worked out well as the clocks had gone back so his parents said he was awake at a ridiculously early hour!

Which brings us to the last day.  It was an easy morning at home, with the kids colouring and playing games.  There was a piano lesson as well which was fun to listen to.  Sadly it was time to go.  I managed to get all the hugs I could before it was time to go.  Then it was back to Heathrow for an uncomfortably long flight home and back to reality.

Thankfully I had gotten the Monday off work.  My original plan was actually to go right back to work.  Every time I say I will plan in some recovery time, and every time I think it’ll be fine and it’s worth it to stay a couple days more!  That is my pro tip, always book a rest day after bigger trip!

Tales of History, Near and Far

I had a lovely few days next in Bristol.  Picked up at the train station by my Uncle, we did a little driving tour through town, though Bristol is not a very car friendly place!  Then we headed up to Cleavedon to see the pier along the Severn Estuary.  I had a delicious cream tea to fortify myself for a blustery stroll along the coast.  Cleavedon also has a very large tidal swimming pool.  This one had only a few brave people swimming on a very cool and windy day!

The next morning was spent going through my family history.  My Uncle had acquired from family some pictures that his Aunt had kept.  There were snap shots from my childhood that my grandparents had been sending along, as well as photos of my grandmother as a young woman travelling with friends.  There was even a photo album of my great grandparents on what appears to have been a Scandinavian cruise! 

The afternoon was spent with local history, my Aunt took me to Berkeley Castle.  It has been owned by the same family for 900 years- with a few gaps over the centuries after the family backed the wrong side in conflicts!  The castle is also famous for having been where King Edward II was held and allegedly murdered during the Civil War years.  The current family still lives at or around the castle, but much of it is open for tours so it was interesting to see all of the history they have acquired and kept over the centuries. 

Dinner that evening was at the Royal, a fantastic pub in Portishead.  I had an incredible steak and ale pie. It was over looking the Severn, which would have been a great view in the day time, however we could still see the twinkling lights of Wales in the distance.

I left Bristol over loaded with family photos, my Uncle told me I was welcome to take all I wanted as I am the family member who is very interested in the historical things. I am going to have my work cut out for me trying to figure out who everyone is and then digitizing them! 

Time for Family

I have very much enjoyed my time exploring Cornwall on my own, I am finishing up my journey through England by visiting various relatives.  First is a stop in Salisbury to see a cousin. The journey unfortunately was not an easy one.   I still had my rental car with plans to drive to Exeter and catch a train there.  The drive in the beginning was any easy one.  It was raining quite a bit but as I was on a dual carriage way things flowed fine.

Exeter however was another story. I guess as soon as there is one minor issue the town just fills up.  I was on time when I got to the city, and twenty minutes late getting to the rental location.  Then it took a half hour for a taxi to arrive, and with a longer trip to the station, I missed my train by a good hour.  I was able to book onto a new train, but also for some reason, probably the weather, the trains were running an hour longer for the trip to Salisbury.  In the end however, I made it.

My cousin and her husband took me to dinner at the Haunch of Venison in Salisbury.  Just an amazing old building that was opened around 1320 and was used by the workmen building the near by cathedral.  They say the beams in the ceiling are even older and came from sailing ships. The marble floor tiles come from the cathedral, when there was an update done to the heating there.  There is a mummified hand on display that is said to be from the 18th century, someone who was caught cheating at cards.  As well one of the little “snug” rooms at the back hosted Winston Churchill and Dwight Eisenhower as they planned the D Day invasions. So all in all just an amazing spot for dinner.

The next day was a little dreary, I had wanted to walk around Old Sarum but it was on and off pouring rain.  So instead I was directed to visit a really neat little spot, The Phoenix Emporium, like a flea market, with dozens of little stalls filled with all manner of collectables, antiques and random items.   Then it was just a walk into Salisbury, through the market square which was hosting a silly little fall fair.  No one was on the rides in this weather though.  I also went through the Salisbury Museum, which had an interesting mix of archeological finds, including various skeletons like the Amesbury Archer, and others dating through the Saxon to the Neolithic. There was a small display from a Landscape Art competition, and the story of Salisbury through the ages. 

I had walked around the cathedral a little, but I have been there before when I was in England for another family members wedding, so I didn’t bother stopping in again.  It is a gorgeous old cathedral though, I would recommend visiting it and seeing one of the remaining copies of the Magna Carta too. 

The rest of the evening was just quiet at home, chatting with my cousin and getting lots of cuddles from the family pup.  It was nice to have a home cooked meal as well and just relax on the couch in the evening.  A slow morning the next day as I was moving on, thankfully with no train issues this time, and headed to my Uncle near Bristol

A Haunted Jail (Not for Skeptics!)

This post really is for the believers.  Or those of you who would really like to laugh at me!  I truly do believe in energy connecting the world.  Seeing the threads as they connect to the non visible parts is hard.  Even I don’t believe in many people who claim they can see them.  If you are trying to make money off the unseeen than you definitely should be doubted.

The Bodmin Jail Hotel is making money off its historic past, off the dark history.  The museum does have paranormal tours, but it isn’t the main focus.  That does mean it doesn’t benefit from people spreading stories of “experiences.”

Here is mine. During my after hours ghost tour there were more than a few flickering lights.  The guide had an explanation and a story of the lights being repeatedly checked out by varying levels of professionals.  The lights danced in a way that was plausible with the stories told.  The guide seems to be a believer and I think would be shamed if the lights were faked.  I’d like to believe.  They just seem to easy.

What I felt though, wasn’t during the tour, sure there was sadness at some of the tales of people and children in terrible situations with horrible punishments.  What oppressed me the most was dinner in the Chapel Restaurant.  A beautiful spot with lovely staff and excellent food.  On two of my three nights there I just felt so down.  Minor issues at dinner that barely rate anywhere else led to me just feeling so tearful.

There are so many explanations, dinner actually being disappointing or personal issues getting in the way.  After dinner however I went back down to the Champagne Bar in the Chaplin’s office, and very quickly felt more myself again.  There are so many simple explanations - it was full of people chatting.  Just moving rooms reset my brain.  They are all likely. I just know that I sat there for another hour and didn’t feel anywhere near the sadness I did upstairs.

I am certainly not saying what I felt is supernatural, or even to not visit this exquisite hotel.  Just maybe comes with friends and a light heart against the sadness that is in these very elegant walls. 

Walking the Moors of Cornwall

My last day on my own on this trip, and I decided to travel around the beautiful Bodmin Moor.  Most of my knowledge of the area probably comes from my love of Time Team, all of their episodes online really got me through the pandemic.  As well as just hiking the moors I wanted to see some of the sites I had seen on the show. 

To properly explore Bodmin on my own, I got a rental car.  That is always an adventure in England.  I can manage driving narrow lanes and on the wrong side of the road.  But doing it in a vehicle larger than I’m used to, where I never feel like I know my width was an extra challenge.   I ended up on some very narrow roads that didn’t even seem wide enough for ONE car, let alone navigating if you came face to face with another.  Luckily I really only had to reverse down a lane way once.  

I started this morning with another lovely breakfast at the hotel before setting off.  Going counter clockwise around Bodmin my first stop was Golitha Falls.  It was a pretty little spot close to the road so an easy walk.  Lots of people out this morning, and lots of dogs running about.  It had the ruins of old wheel housing from the old workings in the area, it is now a protected area with lots of old growth oaks and flora and fauna. 

I kept along the road to the town of Minions with has some beautiful stone circles, the Hurlers, just a short walk from the car park.  I kept walking along to moor up towards the Cheesewring, which is a stack of stones resembling the slabs of the same name used to press cider apples.  These ones are enormous and there is debate if they are a man made monument or naturally occurring.  The area was also heavily quarried.  Some of the stone cladding along the Tower Bridge is from here.  

I love the open ramble laws of Britain, it was really neat to just wander through this field, past the stones and then continuing up the Tor.  I passed cows, sheep and horses all in the field.  You also have to be careful while driving because the sheep had not been taught to check before crossing!

At the top of the Cheesewring were lots of pits that looked to be from mining and quarrying. It is hard for a novice like me to know which stone circles are Victorian quarries, which are old mining pits and which could be as old as the Bronze Age Rillaton Barrow I was able to find on the top.  They are all, however, stunning.  I didn’t go all the way to the top.  My stamina and my ankle are just not what they were a few years ago and I had a whole day of agony, sorry hiking, ahead of me. 

There were a few interesting spots I would have liked to try and find along the moor, but a couple of the monuments don’t really have road markers.  You just need to find the right lay by and footpath along the road and head off for a walk.  So I did stick to the better marked spots.   The next part of my route ended up being a bit poorly planned with some driving back and forth.  I stopped first in the village of Altarnun that was recommended soley for having a pretty little stone bridge and a lovely 15th century church.  Both were picture perfect, but it probably wasn’t worth navigating the narrow roads in and out for just 15 min!

I headed up the highway a little bit - two lanes! Wide and open! To the Jamaican Inn.  Famed for being a smugglers hide out, the original location was built as a staging post for travellers across the moor.  It got a reputation for smuggling and became famous due to a novel written in 1936 by Daphne Du Maurier.  It got its name as the original owner of the area was also once the British Governor to Jamaica.   

I had a nice lunch there and looked around the 18th century buildings.  I think if there is ever a return visit to Cornwall this might be a good place to stay as well.  It’s also another allegedly haunted site.  With a gorgeous pub for lunch. 

Next was a bit of back tracking, I wanted to go see Rough Tor and google was recommending driving through Altarnun.  A little bit of sleuthing and I decided to take a slightly “longer” route.  The roads seemed to be bigger and I was right and got to drive at a decent speed for most of the way to the spot.  Rough Tor is part of what Time Team had investigated in Bodmin so I was quite interested to see it.  During their weekend you couldn’t seem to turn around with out tripping over prehistoric round houses.   I’m not even sure I walked the best parts and I was not disappointed.

I’m not sure what I was thinking, I managed 3.5km and an elevation gain of over 200m in just an hour.  The wind was howling and the rain had started.  It was everything one could expect of hiking a British Moor.  I didn’t even have the goal of making it to the top of the Tor.  I just staggered passed the amused cows and sheep to the top of the gradual rise, and saved the steeper stone top for tougher souls.  It was incredible.  There were stone circles everywhere, likely the prehistoric round houses.  Stone lines were field boundaries, dating from the medieval and further back into the mists of time.  And stacks of stones at the top of the hill that were carried up there by people a lot more determined to me.

With the day coming to an end, the wind threatening to steal my hat, and my knees about to never forgive me, I headed back down to the car to head back to the hotel for my last evening in Cornwall.  Of course that wasn’t the end of the adventure, I still had to drive the narrow roads back to the bigger towns. At one point I actually stopped driving to take a picture of how ridiculously narrow it seemed for even one vehicle!

But I made it safely back to the Bodmin Jail Hotel, which is a gorgeous luxury hotel with amazing food.  My one word of warning is to maybe never visit alone.  At least during dinner in the old Chapel I have had some issues with low moods.  Maybe that is just me though and just a coincidence…you’ll have to see for yourself!

In the Footsteps of History and Myths

One of the places I have longed to visit in Cornwall is Tintagel Castle. Reactions to that have varied from derision for going some where only known for mythology and appreciation from others for the beauty and history of the site.  While much of what makes the area so attractive to tourists does come from its association with the great king of legend, there is also some real history there too!

Ruins on Tintagel date to around the 5th and 6th centuries. While that can be roughly the time of Arthur, there is little proof that he actually existed. How ever kings and warlords mentioned in his sagas, and battles they fought likely did.  Then in the 13th century, Richard the Duke of Cornwall, and son of King John, traded some valuable land to acquire the land around Tintagel.  He built and rebuilt on the mainland and on the promontory.  There is speculation that the romance of the legend of Arthur and as well the legend of Tristan and Isolde is what made the land valuable to him.  Slowly the true history of the land is shining through with the legend.  The 13th century ruins are just as fascinating to me as the legends of Merlins Cave.

I made a slight miscalculation by starting my tour at the “end” because I wanted to see Merlin’s Cave during low tide, which was early this morning.  After walking most of the way down to the shore, I settled for some scenic shots of the cave from above.  There were a lot more stairs in my near future.  As per my watch, 36 flights.

It was a slight trudge back up the hill before taking the switch back track to the entrance to the Castle.  In most areas the walls are only a foot or so high, but a few sill reach above the heads of the tourists gathering around. With the sun just starting to peak out, I was delighted with the views.  Looking back down to the beach where gorgeous clear water was splashing around Merlin’s Cave and all along the beautiful coast.  

Nowadays there is a good bridge that links the land to the island.  Once, the outcropping had a narrow land-bridge but it had collapsed in the 15h or 16th centuries.  Then one would have to climb down the steep steps to a small bridge that had been built before climbing back up to the top of the island.  In 2019 British Heritage finally added a higher bridge that removed part of that difficult climb. 

There is a gorgeous walk around the island, through parts of the Dukes castle, as well as past some of the 5th century walls.  The views were epic, all along the coast which is also accessible as part of the South West Coast Trail. As well as some ancient wells and gardens there is a modern statue called Gallos, he is a Kingly Figure that isn’t meant to represent Arthur, but all the kings of Drummonia who likely lived in the area and fortified the hill.

Then it was back down all the steps again to just above the cove.  And a slow trudge back up to the town.  I cheated slightly and paid for the shuttle.  Annoyingly it dropped us off at the bottom of the last steep climb to the main street.  I may have paused a couple times to take some pictures of the beautiful scenery.  

After Tintagel I drove up the coast to the town of Boscastle.  I had read it was a beautiful harbour town, and it certainly was.  I had lunch at what used to be the Mill, the Wellington Pub, before walking down along the river to the harbour.  Apparently there is an amazing site of a blow hole at low tide, but with the tides right now being low early in the morning I hadn’t been able to see it.  

Boscastle also is the home of a Witchcraft Museum.  It is said to have had the skeleton of Joan Wytte on display for decades.   She was a prisoner of the Bodmin Jail and executed for witchcraft.  First her body was given to a governor of the Bodmin Asylum for a prop in his sceances. Eventually the new owner of the Witchcraft and Magic Museum wanted Joan respectfully interred.  Even in the 90’s it was apparently hard to have her placed in consecrated ground, so they found a place for her in the nearby woods with a monument, so she can be visited by those who respect a wise woman. 

My final stop today was just at the Camel Valley Winery.  I had tried their wines at the Oyster Festival and really enjoyed them.  It was a beautiful location, though as I was driving and on very narrow winding roads, I didn’t try and more.  Oh yes, I haven’t really mentioned, I have a rental car for this part of the journey.  I’ll have to tell you all about that tomorrow!  There will definitely be more driving as I will be headed all over Bodmin Moor to see sights and hike very small amount of the epic country side. 

Bodmin Jail

I will be staying three nights in Bodmin Jail.  Well, the luxury hotel on the site of Bodmin Jail.  This gorgeous hotel is extremely comfortable, although the atmosphere might be a bit oppressive.  I am a believer of energies connecting us all.  I don’t know how or what form it takes, but it wouldn’t surprise me if there is more than just this.   Usually it doesn’t affect me much, but maybe a ghost tour before bed wasn’t my brightest plan?

The guide seemed excellent, legitimate and interested in the stories.  They will apparently be on an upcoming episode of My Haunted Project which he was quite excited about.  The guide led us down to a basement level of the jail, and told stories of the local area as well as the past, and present, inmates of the jail.  

While telling tales in what was the morgue, and is now a display like a court room, the lights continually flickered. It did seem a little fantastical to me, though the guide swears that the lights have all been checked repeatedly and no faults can be found.  Interestingly, the claim was the lights flicker more when the story is told of Sara Polgrean, and when he started talking about other stories the flickering almost completely stopped.  Instinct makes me skeptical, but I want to believe he isn’t the one lying at least.  

We carried on the tour into some cells that have been restored.  I found out we were in the Navy Wing, which means just a few stories below my luxury cell for the night.  We were able to look around the cells. Which also included a macabre example of Victorian Mortuary Photography.  And the story of the one cell that is completely sealed off.  The ghost given the delightful name of Sausage Fingers allegedly led to the swift resignation of many a worker during the renovations.  So after two failed exorcisms the whole cell is now sealed off.  

The tour wound its way back up to ground level, over the land where several of the executed prisoners are buried- don’t tell the school children, that’s their picnic area! Before finishing at the hanging pit.  What was once a public spectacle was eventually moved to an indoor hanging pit to give the prisoners a little bit of dignity.  Apparently it’s still functional, so if England changes the laws again the Hotel may have a new income option.

After the tour ended I returned to the Chapel restaurant for dinner.  It was a lovely steak, but I did find myself feeling a bit down.  Not sure if it was being tired, or someone negative had been stealing my energy, but I decided to head to bed a bit early.  And I offered a deal to any “roommates” I had, I would leave the chair free of anything for them to use, and they could use the bed during the day when I was gone, if they would let me sleep in peace.

I then went to watch TV in bed before falling asleep.  Unfortunately I couldn’t find my go to wind down show, Ghosts.  I hope my new friends weren’t disappointed.

From the Coast to the Moors

After a rough sleep and lots of walking the last few days I was having some trouble getting motivated for my last day on the coast.  So I decided to have an easy day wandering Penzance as I pleased.  I headed down the hill to the promenade and had a lovely walk.  It was a bit dreary too, but no rain.  I started out having a cup of tea and a croissant from a little trailer set up on the promenade.

Next I walked down to the Jubilee Pool.  When packing for this trip I had debating bringing a swim suit, but I could not remember why I thought it was a good idea.  While Cornwall has beautiful beaches, it was not going to be very seasonal for swimming.  None of my hotels had pools.  So I shrugged it off and didn’t bother. 

Well, the answer was the Jubilee Pool.  It started out with the town piling rocks to create a swimming area.  In 1935 the Jubliee Pool was opened for King George V’s Silver Jubilee.  It is a triangular shaped pool that is managed, but is filled by seawater and has a small children’s section.  And the reason for my need of a swim suit was the recent edition of a geothermal heated pool.  The hot pool was filled with people, and a few taking laps in the main pool as well.  

My stroll then continued to the Yacht Inn where I had lunch and a pint of local lager.  Further along I stopped at a building that was the oldest lifeboat house in Cornwall, and is now a little cafe.  The family that runs it also has a meadery.  So with my tea I sampled a flight of six meads.  They were not quite to my taste, but I enjoyed the peach flavour quite a bit.  

My slow meander through town took me back up the hills now, where I stopped at 45 Queen St, a small fancy little restaurant for an early dinner.  I relaxed there for a bit with a glass of wine and my book before heading back to my inn.

I had seen a sign that it was a trivia night, and they collect money for a charity in hour of the landlords nephew who passed from cancer recent.  The funds go to support cancer treatment with the NHS.  I slipped into the main pub and ordered a pint.  It can be hard being on a trivia team of one - I was dead last at one in Australia! They are still fun none the less.  But the lovely people of the Fountain Tavern had none of that.  One of the locals asked if I was playing and I was encouraged to join one of the teams.  

It was lots of fun getting to know the locals, and I did provide a bit of an edge with some questions.  Though not too many!  My best was being able to name five famous Jennifer’s from film and television.  To some hilarity when I was asked where I was staying, I replied that I was staying at the inn there.  With some laughter I discovered two of my teammates owned the establishment!  They and their friends had quite a good night and were very welcoming.  I had an excellent stay and was glad I decided to join the trivia challenge. 

In the morning was check out, not a rush as it was just a one hour train ride to my next destination.  I’m staying in Bodmin near the beautiful Bodmin Moor.  I am also very excited to be treating myself to a very posh hotel that was once the Bodmin Jail.  Built in 1779 it was a remarkably modern jail for its time, inmates had individual cells, women had a separate area and there was even hot water!  The room are comprised of three cells to make them very spacious, and I think my bed is actually in what was an extra fire place in the women’s section so the pregnant and nursing mothers could have some extra heat.  So kind of them.  That wing was eventually given over to the Navy and used to house prisoners from the military. 

The restaurant is in the old chapel, and the bar is the Chaplin’s office.  From here he could see the executions in the public yard from the comfort of his own chair.   I’m quite excited to stay here, both the luxury and the history.  There is an eerie silence in my rooms though with the think stone walls.  As well as a plaque on the wall that says the cell was used by Benjamin Ellison who was executed in 1845.

Tonight I will be doing a ghost tour of the museum that is on the site.  I’m really looking forward to a nice sleep in the plush comfort of my room.  So I hope I won’t regret the tour!

Thousands of Years of Cornish History

Tuesday morning I had arranged a tour with a local astroarcheolgist who does walking tours of the ancient sites around Cornwall.  She was very interesting to talk with, and very passionate about her work which always makes for a great guide.

We had an easy start to the morning and drove up to the Merry Maidens stone circle.  It appears that Cornwall is littered with standing stones and they are along public foot paths and many are very easily accessible.   The Merry Maidens are 19 stones standing in a circle in a field.  Of course no one is exactly sure why they are there, but one antiquitarian claimed that on May Day if one stood at a single standing stone in a another field and looked at the circle, one could see the Pleiades rise above the centre stone.  In her research my guide also went to the circle on May Day for sunrise.  She said at first looking at the sun rise through the stones, nothing special jumped out, but as she walked around to the top and looked back down the hill, the shadows of the stones reached out and crossed each other in seemingly deliberate patterns.

We carried on down the lane a short way where there was a Neolithic Entrance Tomb along side the road way that had survived, though had been dug out by the Victorian Antiquitarians.  And across the way in the field was a single tall standing stone that appeared to be looking towards the Maidens and could easily be connected to them.

Back in the car we drove along to Boscawen-un, another stone circle.  This one is a little more off the path and very popular with locals and pagans who still visit frequently. More mystery here of course, with a slanting oblong stone in the middle.  As well all of the 19 circle stones were of the local granite - except one.  The stone that appears to be opposite the entry way is made of quartz. 

The next stop was only about a mile away if one hikes, by car it was a bit farther on winding Cornish country roads.  At the top of a hill was Carn Euny which was a village that dates from the Roman era.  There didn’t seem to be a lot of evidence of Roman occupation in Cornwall, one theory was that the Cornish had long been trading tin all over the world so was quite used to foreigners and just happily kept trading with the Romans.  Which in turn led the Romans to leave them mostly alone to protect a status quo.

Carn Euny consists of a series of round houses, each with a front section and entry way where a family would have lived.  It also has a Cornish Fougou, an underground passage and this side had a perfectly preserved underground beehive hut.  It was amazing too that the stones had a bioluminescent moss that glittered with just a touch of light.  The original entrance to the Fougou was a very small passage one would have had to squeeze through.  It did have enlarged entrances as the medieval farm on the site used it for storage.  There was also the remains of a very small farm house in the middle of the site. 

Further up the path were the two wells on the site.  The first we came to was scared to the pagans and likely used in the pre Christian era.   After a dry spell it didn’t appear to have any water while we were there.   Further up the path there was an Anglo-Saxon era church dedicated to the local St Euny that is mostly gone.  The spring and the holy well remains and is a beautiful spot.  The locals would often come to dunk their ill children or any “changelings” to request protection of the saint.  It is still tradition for locals to come up on the saints day.  Though no one ducks a child anymore.  My guide says many will dunk a plushie to keep the tradition of requesting protection from the saint.

The next place we stopped was the oldest spot, some Neolithic standing stones that likely used to be another buried entrance tomb, with evidence of other smaller tombs around it (basically it sounds like there are tombs everywhere in Cornwall.)  The three stones still stand together like an arch.  Though they were replaced once, when 200 years ago they were struck by lightening and knocked down.  The people came together to replace the stones, and carved 1824 on the side.  The locals had a celebration last year for the 200th anniversary of the reconstruction.   And in the hill in the distance is the remains of an old tin mine.  It’s locally known as the Ding Dong Mine, as the local pastor complained that the “ding dong of the bells calling the miners to work were too noisy and people couldn’t hear the parish bells.”

The final stop on my tour was a walk along side farmers fields still lined with the medieval stone field boundaries and had a few ruined old farm houses.  We walked up the path to the Men a Tol standing stones.  Which translates to ‘Hole Stone’ because that’s all it is.  Well, more than just that.  It’s a circular stone with a good sized hole in the middle standing between two short standing stones.  They say if you crawl through it can fix an aching back or a crick in the neck.  While I was tempted to see if it would work after staying in slightly more basic accommodations, it can also help with woman getting pregnant.  So I decided to skip crawling through and focused on just taking pictures!

My guide was lovely enough to drop me In Marazion on the way back.  While I had seen most of what I had wanted to see, I calculated the out going tide to start revealing the causeway late in the day.  I had regretted yesterday not getting pictures from the land side as the path was revealed.  So today I slowly walked along the path with other collecting pictures as the waves dropped lower and lower.  My trusty waterproof shoes worked very well, till I got a little lazy and stopped paying attention.  Waterproof doesn’t help when the waves slosh over the top and down into the shoe.  Sigh.  Well, in for a penny, in for a pound.  I kept up my pictures and enjoyed chatting with the others on the path till the way cleared.

Then a bus back to Penzance, another nice dinner where I ended up chatting with a lovely lady who has spent the last 6 days walking the west coast trail.  Though commiserating about sore legs is a little embarrassing when the other woman did so much more than you and is easily your mother’s age!